Friday 26 May 2017

The beautiful Italian Riviera Ligure di Levante

As it was my birthday, Mel took me out for the day on a boat trip, before he wined and dined me!
We took a scooter ride around to Rapallo from San Rocco (8kms) to get on a boat trip that takes you on the Riviera Ligure.  It’s a hop off and on boat, that calls in to Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino and San Fruttuoso and back again.   This time of year, they run about every 1/2 hour from 10:00-18:00.
Leaving Rapallo
We decided to get off at San Fruttuoso first.  It’s a tiny fishing hamlet that is only accessible by boat or on foot (a 2 ½ hour walk from our Sosta at San Rocco).  The San Fruttuoso Abbey sits on the front of a picturesque little bay.It was originally built to house the relics of the Christian martyr Saint Fruttuoso’s, brought here from Spain after the Moorish invasion in 711. It was rebuilt in 984 and later became a Benedictine abbey.  The Doria family took over in the 16th century adding the defensive Torre dei Doria nearby.
San Fruttuoso Abbey and Torre dei Doria
It was well worth the €6.50 to go in and wonder around and to understand the history around it, but unfortunately so much restoration work has had to be carried out on the abbey that a lot of the original parts no longer exist.  Leaving San Fruttuoso for Portofino we saw some people out on a private boat swimming near some Dolphins.  Our boat driver stopped for a short while to let us watch them – a fantastic sight to see.
Dolphins swimming around the boat - hard to capture them on camera!
Next stop was pretty and luxurious Portofino, that’s tucked in to a protected inlet surrounded by cypress and olive-clad slopes.  It attracts a lot of the rich and famous, which is evident by the giant yachts anchored nearby! 
Portofino from the hill by San Giorgio church
We thought we might have something to eat here, until we saw the prices!  So, we decided to just have a lunch-time birthday drink in a little café/bar.  However, when the menu came and Mel saw the prices, I thought I was going to have to give him CPR!  It was €9 for a pint of beer, so we opted for a glass of wine each at €6.  The only thing was they forgot to fill up the glass and we ended up getting about a third-full small glass of wine!  It was a nice place to sit though and people watch.
So, back on the boat again...

... next stop was Santa Margherita Ligure.  A lovely palm-laden resort, tucked into an inlet.  We watched the fisherman bring in their catch (it had just turned 5pm), where they took it to market and a queue of people waiting to buy from them.

One fascinating feature of Santa Margherita is the town’s painted houses.  It is said that the local custom of decorating houses’ facades with trompe-l’oeil images came about when the Maritime Republic of Genoa started taxing windows. In order to avoid paying up, the Genoese began to paint on non-existent windows, for purely decorative purposes. The art has been honed over time and these decorated houses are now a renowned feature of Liguria’s landscape.  Trompe-l’oeil images (meaning to fool the eyes) is a naturalistic painting technique making what two-dimensional images appear three-dimensional


We then walked up to Villa Durazzo and the gardens, where we found this unusual sight - turtles swimming around in a fountain!

From here we walked back into the town and in to Santa Margherita church, which was really ornate. 
Santa Margherita Church
Boat trip finished, it was back on the scooter around to the pretty fishing village of Camogli where we enjoyed a lovely meal and watched the sun go down.  
Camogli
A perfect end to a lovely day.

Sally x



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