Feeling Christmassy in Milan via Ferrari and Pavarotti land

After a day of being snowed in at Mondavio, it finally stopped snowing and was beginning to melt a little bit.  A local man had been out to clear the roads near the Sosta, so we could get out onto the main road.

Poor old Sonny does not like this cold weather!

That snow was mighty deep!

We headed to Modena - home of Ferrari, Pavarotti and Modena Balsamic Vinegar.  We had originally thought we would take the scenic road, but with the weather not being good, we decided to pay the toll fee and headed for the autostrada.  It cost €13 for a stretch of over 100 miles - not bad. We have only been in Italy a few days and already we saw an accident involving 3 cars.  They are such erratic and impatient drivers.  We parked up at Area Camper Club Mutina, Modena (N44.61361 E10.94433).  It’s a secure parking area with all the usual facilities plus a heated shower/toilet block, washing-up facilities and a large rest room with vending machines, all for €16 a night.  The owner spoke very little English but was very friendly and gave us a map and some information on the town.

We are not petrol heads but we do like a Ferrari and Mel enjoys a bit of motor racing. However, to visit the Enzo Ferrari museum was going to cost us €32 and a further €25 each if you wanted to sit in a ‘simulated car’ and drive the track.  Talk about ‘rip Off Italy’! So, we gave that a miss and had a mooch around the town the next day.  Not a Ferrari in sight and the only reference to Pavarotti is a theatre named after him. Plenty of balsamic vinegar on offer though, ha-ha.

You have to be so careful where you park your motorhome in Italy, more so in the south, which we discovered last year.  We have spoken to a few people who have had break-ins and have read reports on the internet.  So, we drove to Lidl, did a shop and walked a couple of kms to the centre.  The car park was near a main road with lots of comings and goings, so we figured it would be safe here for a couple of hours.  Walking in to the town was not so safe though, as I nearly got run over.  The Italian’s don’t understand the concept of pedestrian crossings and a car stopped within an inch of my life as I was walking across it and then gave me the look and body language as if it was my fault – crazy Italian drivers!

Modena is on the UNESCO World Heritage list and it looked like they were using the money to do up everywhere, as all the main buildings were covered in scaffolding.  The 12^th century cathedral, with its high tower dominates the main Piazza Grande.

Town Hall

Ice skating rink outside the Ducal Palace - also covered in scaffolding! 

It’s not a big town but it was nice wandering around the cobbled streets, which surprisingly had 4 large Christmas trees in it.  From Modena it was back on the autostrada, where we shared the driving to Milan - a 114 mile journey into the Lombardy region of Italy.  It meant another toll fee of €13 but the weather was really grey with sleet and rain and we wouldn’t have seen much staying off the motorway. We parked up on an Agriturismo, owned by an organic and rice farmer, with spaces for 10 motorhomes (N45.40164 E9.18215).  There were a couple of Italian motorhomes parked up but we never saw anybody come or go.  For €19 a night it was basic to say the least but this was Milan, and so we knew it wasn't going to be cheap. On top of that you have to endure a rooster waking you up at 5am - the joys of stopping on a farm!

A 10 minute walk from the farm and you are at the tram stop.  Italy is an expensive country but their transport system is as ‘cheap as chips’.  It’s a 30 minute journey to the centre and only cost us €6 return ticket for the both of us - well done Italy!  Arriving at the cathedral it was heaving.  We thought it would be fairly busy, as the Christmas markets were on but the queue to get in the cathedral was long and getting longer by the minute.  So, we headed to the ticket office and joined the queue.  There was a lot of military security around the cathedral and everyone was searched electronically before going in, as well as a bag search.  Not sure if this happens all year or if its heightened because of it being Christmas time and the attacks that have taken place in other cities this time of year.  Mel just got the €3 ticket to get into the cathedral; however, I got the €7 one that included the cathedral, museum and archaeological area.  You can pay a further €9 if you want to walk up on the roof (€13 if you take the lift) – they know how to rip the tourists off these Italians!  Work begun on the cathedral in 1386 but not finished until 1938.  The outside appealed to us more than the inside, with its carved white marble statues – a mix of Baroque and Gothic designs.  We got talking to a father and daughter from Moldova, who were in front of us in the queue. It was interesting to hear about a country we really knew nothing about.

It has 52 columns, each representing one week of the year

A large crucifix is suspended and hidden from public view behind a net - no idea why, probably so it is shrouded in mystery!  It’s said to contain a nail from Christ’s cross and is only lowered once a year – 14 September (the Feast of the Cross) by a device invented by Leonardo da Vinci. They were getting ready for a Christmas concert in the cathedral so the central part was cordoned off to the public.

Large crucifix suspended from the ceiling - hidden behind the netting

A gruesome statue of St Bartholomew, with his sculpted veins, muscles and bones and skin thrown over his shoulder like a toga

Below the cathedral are the Archaeological finds of the Santa Tecla Basilica and Baptistery of San Giovanni, dating back to 350, which was destroyed and the cathedral built over the top of it.

The Museum houses a large collection of sculptures, paintings, tapestries, stained glass windows and ugly gargoyle.  You could probably spend about 1½ if it's your thing but for me it was all a bit samey so ½ hour was long enough for me. Did like this tapestry though!

13th century tapestry, of wool, silk and silver

Statue in the centre of the Piazza Duomo attracts hundreds of pigeons - a bit like Nelsons Column.  If you put your arms out they will land on you and do the business!

Santa Maria delle Grazie – famous for housing the painting of The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci in the refectory of the monastery.  You have to buy a ticket in advance, on-line for €9 and then you get an allocated time to visit and then you're only allowed 15 minutes in there.  We had seen the painting in a monastery last year when we were in Italy – okay not the original admittedly but it didn’t justify paying €18 to see it again!

Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio was built in 379 and is the city's oldest church.  It’s unusual for its 2 brick towers of different heights.  It is built on the site of a cemetery and they are currently excavating the area and have unearthed over 140 bodies.  One of which was on view as a couple of archaeologists were doing their thing but I'm not into taking pictures of dead people!

A group of nuns were visiting at the same time as us

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II – a beautiful glass domed shopping gallery. 

Milan is famous for its fashion and design, and this place houses all the top designers.  Needless to say, prices are ridiculous and only those with a fat wallet can afford to shop or eat in here.  That ruled us out then!

These interesting 'fashion statements' would set you back a few euros!

Perfume anyone?

Jazzy old tram goes passed La Scala Opera Theatre – the building is not as ornate as we thought it would be. The inside is supposed to be beautiful and we would love to attend a concert there - maybe one day!

Sforzesco Castle lies on the edge of a large public park (Parco Sempione), the castle has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. Napoleon had a road laid out around it in self-tribute, with an arch at the end that reminded us of a small Brandenburg Gate.  He fancied himself as King of Italy!

Sforzesco Castle

Napoleon’s triumphal arch

After hours of walking around it was time to sit down and enjoy a meal.  You know it’s going to be expensive when they bring you a complimentary glass of Prosecco and a freebie starter.  It was good though!

Fed and watered, it was time to hit that Christmas market!

Ten hours in Milan and we were worn out.  It’s a lovely old city, with some great buildings that reminded us a bit of London.  Fingers crossed, we will return one day.

Sally x