Sand, Wind and haggling in Essaouira

Sonny (the motorhome) is 'gearing up' for life in the Sahara Dessert by slowly getting used to sandy life, as he is parked on Sidi Magdoul Campsite in Essaouira.  Essaouira is a port city and resort on Morocco’s Atlantic coast that experience strong "Alizée" trade winds all year round.  And boy does that sand blow!  Since setting off from Tangier we have travelled 501 miles (801.5kms) south down the coast.

Before leaving Oualidia we enjoyed another evening meal - a delicious chicken Tagine for 2 (100DH) served to our motorhome washed down by a fairly cheap bottle of Moroccan wine (39DH) that we had found earlier in a supermarket.

We continued down the R301 coastal road, and although this section of the road was bumpy there weren’t so many potholes as previously and the coastal views were lovely.

We saw similar sites to those of the last road trip – men, women and children working in the fields; donkeys with heavy loads on their back and men/women taking their cows and sheep for a walk to find grass.  This time though we saw children getting dropped off on the side of the road from a school bus so that was good to see that some are getting an education.  Everyone seemed happy to see us as we got lots of ‘waves’ again.  As we neared Essaouira we caught our first glimpse of the Atlas Mountains – albeit a hazy blur in the background!

To say the campsite we are on is basic would be an understatement, even by Morocco's standards!  But, it is the only one nearest to the town (3km away) and although there are guarded parking spots a little closer, they are just 24 hour car parks.  We will make use of the fresh water for our tank to shower/wash, hook up to electric and use the chemical toilet disposal facilities – we will not be risking using the campsites ablutions! Oh yes, and free wi-fi!  Although the town is about 3kms away, the walk is lovely as it follows the beach.  

The Medina in the distance with a camel sunbathing the beach!

The medina (old town) is protected by 18th-century seafront ramparts called the Skala de la Kasbah, which were designed by European engineers. 

Skala du Port

Plenty of fishing boats down here and a great spot to enjoy the port activities and the fisherman at work selling their catch. 

Old brass cannons line the walls, and there are some great ocean views.

A great spot to enjoy a large glass of fresh orange – only 10DH

And then a fish dinner.  You pick the fish you want, it then gets weighed and you get given a price. 

We had a selection of prawns, langoustines, squid, sardines and red mullet for 200DH, which included bread, salad, a coke and 7-up – yummy!

There were some lovely stalls to see walking around the Kasbah and Souks (marketplace).

One of the entrances to the Kasbah

A walk around the woodworkers’ Souk where I bought a thuya wood box.  It's a speciality wood only found in this part of Morocco

Entrance into the Marketplace, where some interesting stalls were found and some haggling done by the Harrison's.  I bought a T-shirt and the price started at 220DH and we got him down to 150DH.  Even then, I don't think we got much of a bargin but we enjoyed the haggle and so did the shopkeeper!

Archway through to the marketplace

An Auction/Flea Market.  Selling everything from Carpets to old boots.

An interesting herbal remedies stall - Viagra express for men and Viagra turbo for women!

An olive of every type on this stall

Strong "Alizée" trade winds make the city’s crescent beach popular for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing.

Only in Morocco would you see this - camels crossing the road!

As Essaouira is a popular tourist destination they have a few pavement cafés along the beach selling wine.  We couldn't resist the temptation to have a glass and sit and watch life go by.  A first for us in Morocco!

Sally x