Motorhomers on Tour : The Rock of Gibraltar

Sonny, our 2-room house on wheels is currently parked up at the marina aire at La Linea de la Concepción, right next to the border of Gibraltar.

We stopped off for a night between Cadiz and here, at Conil de La Frontera and parked up right next the beach (N36.27282 W6.08994). It's an official parking place for motorhomes to stop overnight, although there are no facilities but that said, it is free! We are parked up next to a couple from Norway who tell us it’s currently -30 over there, ironically the temperature here is slowly creeping up towards +30 degrees! It was lovely just to go walking along the beach and then relaxing by the motorhome, sitting looking out to sea.

Looking towards the Aire at Conil de La Frontera

The next day we took the scenic coastal route and followed it down to Tarifa, the most southerly point of Europe, around Algeciras and then looped back down to Gibraltar.

We have seen a few of these bulls on the roadside around Andalucia, which were created by the Osborne Sherry Company in 1956.

They stand about 14 metres high and were originally used as advertising boards for their sherry/brandy. In 1994 EU passed a law that prohibited all roadside advertising of alcoholic beverages, so the advertising signs were removed but the bulls were allowed to remain.

There’s no overnight motorhome parking in Gib so we are stopping right on the border at La Linea (N36°9’19” W5°21’14”). It's quite pricey at €12 but it has water, chemical toilet, and laundry facilities, so we're happy especially as we have a stack load of washing to do! Sonny has a brilliant spot overlooking the marina, with the Rock as a backdrop!

We are stopping here 3 nights, before going back around to Algeciras for a night to purchase our ferry ticket for Morocco. We are both excited and apprehensive about going in to North Africa with the motorhome, as this will be our first time.

From the Aire it’s only a 5 minute walk to the border and passport control. Then a short stroll across the 'live' runway and to the Gibraltar Rock!

When I was last here in 1983, the border control was very strict and you were limited as to what you could bring through, plus you could only walk across the border - no cars! Just as we got across the officials closed it off, as a plane was about to take off. The runway isn't very long and has sea both ends, so the aircraft have to have some powerful engines to take off!

Passport Control and walkway across runway

Mel hasn’t been here before but I was last here 34 years ago; it was my first foreign posting when I was a young wren based at HMS Rooke, which sadly closed down last year and now stands empty whilst the government decides what to do with it. It took us nearly 2 hours to find as it was so hard for me to recognise the place, as every inch of land now has either high-rise apartment blocks, restuarants, hotels, and nearly every English high street chain shop going, oh yes and even a massive Morrisons! Mel kept saying to me "are you sure you used to live here?" as I just couldn't get my bearings. Thirty four years ago there was just a small Marks and Spencer, a Liptons grocery store, a few hotels and lots of bars - happy days! Everything has to come in on container ship so I am guessing that must be a logistical nightmare for Morrisons.

HMS Rooke, now surrounded by fencing

The area around the rock is only 2.65² miles and unfortunately the roads are clogged with cars and lots of scooters. I think it must be one of the most densely populated areas going. For me it’s strange being back but nice to be able to walk round and reminisce.

Before heading up the Rock, we walked to Europa Point Lighthouse, which stands at the southernmost point of Gibraltar and serves as a waypoint for vessels passing through the Gibraltar Strait. Fingers crossed we will be passing through the Strait on in 2 days time - North Africa bound!

Europa Point Lighthouse

We took the scenic route up the rock via the Mediterranean Steps, which crisscrosses the Nature Reserve. The gigantic limestone rock rising up from the Mediterranean was one of the mythic pillars of Hercules.

The Pillars of Hercules

It was taken by the English in 1704 during the War of the Spanish Succession, but there are ongoing diplomatic arguments as the Spanish government are desperate to get it back. Legend has it that Britain will retain sovereignty of the rock as long as its most famous residents – the Barbary apes – remain.

Walking up the Mediterranean Steps, looking back to Europa Point

Looking down on Catalan Bay

You can just make Morocco out in the distance!

Then round to St Michael’s Cave – a dramatic natural grotto of stalagmites and stalagtites

A fallen, centuries old stalagmite and the remains showing a cross-section

It doesn’t matter where you roam on the rock, you come across the apes, or as they are properly known, Barbary Macaques. You are warned not to feed them as you will get fined a maximum of £4,000 but people blatantly were and unfortunately we saw a few take people's bags off them looking for things to eat and even snatch a sandwich out of a child’s hand, so beware!

Cheeky Chappy looking for food and drink

From here we walked up as far as you can go – the top of the cable car and got some great views.

Then down to the Great Siege Tunnels. These were excavated by the British Army during the Great Siege of 1779-1783. They were used again and further enhanced during WW2 and are arguably the most impressive defence systems anywhere.