Wednesday 14 June 2017

Rome – One big ancient open-air museum!

For the last 4 days/nights we have been staying on campsites.  Firstly, at a campsite at Lake Bracciano (N42° 8’48” E12°16’9”), 30kms northwest of Rome. It became well known when Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes got married at the castle here in 2006.  The campsite has a lovely setting, right on the beautiful lake with its own beach.  Another opportunity for us to get the Kayak out and have row around the lake and across to Bracciano.
Lake Bracciano
The campsite on the Lake

Relaxing near the motorhome after all the hard work on the Kayak!
We were tempted to stay longer here and even contemplated getting the train from here into Rome, but after a lot of we’ll stay/we won’t stay discussions, we decided to move on to a closer campsite to Rome – Happy Village and Camping (N42°0’2” E12°27’12”), a lovely quiet campsite on the outskirts of Rome.  The campsite has a free shuttle bus service to the station and then it’s a 20-minute train ride to Rome – a 24hr return ticket costs €7.  Quite cheap we thought; however, we soon found out that like their roads, they also don’t make any investment into their rail service.  The trains are so old and shake so much and are covered in graffiti, we wondered if they would last the journey!
We got to Rome just after 9am, and it was already busy with tourists.  We headed through the Porta del Popolo to the Piazza and Santa Maria del Popolo church, that houses some fabulous Renaissance art. 
Porta del Popolo and Santa Maria del Popolo
The piazza is on a hill and you get a great view down Via Del Corso to the Vittorio Emanuele II monument and the centre of Rome.
Piazza del Popolo
From here we headed to the Vatican City.  We arrived at the Piazza San Pietro and straight away were approached by touts trying to sell you ‘fast track’ tickets to the Vatican, Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica.  The queues were already long, almost a 2 hour wait to get into St Peter’s Basilica, which is free to go in.  So, for €50 euros each we could jump the queue and go into them all.  Quite a hefty price, so given that we had been in them all, albeit in 1987, we figured nothing would have changed and decided that we would just spend the day walking around the city.  You don’t need to go into anything to appreciate the history of ancient Rome and admire the architecture and relics of over 2 thousand years, plus most iconic buildings having plaques in English to explain the history.


From here we walked to Castel Sant’ Angelo and across the Ponte Sant’ Angelo
View towards the Vatican and St Peter's from Ponte Sant’ Angelo
And then into Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square that used to be the venue of the athletic events, and later chariot races.  It was given a face-lift in the mid-17th century by Pope Innocent X.  There are 3 fountains in the square, the main one being the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (fountain of the four rivers) topped with an Egyptian obelisk.

On to Palazzo Farnese, building begun in 1514 and was finished off after the architect’s death by Michelangelo.  The building now houses the French Embassy and the square has great fountains spurting out of lilies.
Palazzo Farnese
A walk along the river took us to the once Jewish Ghetto, dominated by the huge Synagogue, then across the Ponte Fabrico to Isola Tiberina.  Built in 62BC, it’s the only classical bridge to remain intact without help from restorers.
Ponte Fabrico to Isola Tiberina
On the Island, just across the bridge is the originally 10th century church of San Bartolomeo, with its ancient columns and carved figures.
San Bartolomeo
Next to the Synagogue is Teatro di Marcello (amphitheatre) which was begun by Julius Caesar and finished by Augustus.
Teatro di Marcello
Steps leading to the Palazzo dei Conservatori and Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo in the last years of his life for Pope Paul III, with an equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (although the original is now in the Palazzo dei Conservatori).

From Capitoline Hill you get a great view of the ancient Roman Forum.

The Forum - On the right The Temple of Venus Genetrix, erected by Julius Caesar 46BC
There are a huge amount of refugees in Rome, trying to make a living on the streets by selling their wares.  Mel got taking to one near the Forum, a really nice man and I am now the owner of an elephant bracelet and little elephant, both of which are supposed to bring me good luck – fingers crossed!


Piazza Venezia is dominated by the marble monstrosity Vittorio Emanuele Monument, erected at the beginning of the 20th century as the ‘Altar of the Nation’ to commemorate Italian Unification.  It has been likened to a typewriter because of its shape, or a wedding cake by American GI's.
Vittorio Emanuele II Monument
The Colosseum, built around 72 AD.  We got here about 3pm and the queues were long to get in so once again we decided, as we had been in it once, it wasn’t worth standing in 32°C heat for an hour or so to go in.  Plus, we got to get a free peak in from around the back when the military guards weren’t looking!  An ongoing €25 million renovation is taking place to keep the structure intact.
The Colosseum


Next to the Colosseum is the huge Arch of Constantine (early 4th century AD).
Arch of Constantine
The Pantheon – the most complete ancient Roman structure in the city. Originally a temple that formed part of Marcus Agrippa’s redesign around 27 BC and the inscription on the porch facade translates as “Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, three-time consul, made this”, although it has since been proven that it was entirely rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian and finished around 125 AD. 
The Pantheon – the most complete ancient Roman structure in the city
Inside, the diameter is precisely equal to its height (43.3m).  The hole in the centre of the dome is 8.7m and illuminates the building with sunlight.  There are no visible arches or vaults to hold the building up as they are sunk into the concrete of the walls of the building.
Inside The Pantheon
The Trevi Fountain, built on the back of a Renaissance palace – work started in 1732 and took 30 years to finish.  It’s a lovely site to just sit and watch the water gush over the statues and rocks.

The Spanish Steps (Scalinata di Spagna) and at the top is the Trinita dei Monti

One thing about Rome was that we felt very safe, as there was armed carabinieri (police) and armed military around all the major attraction sites.
So, exhausted after 8 hours of walking around we said goodbye to this lovely unique city and headed back to the train station and to the campsite for a lovely cool down in the pool
Mel enjoying a dip, wearing the compulsory swim hat for Italian pools!

We move on today to Cassino, and from there to Naples.


Sally x

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