Thursday 27 July 2017

Ioánnina, Vikos Gorge and the Pindus Mountain range of Greece

We have only been in Greece 3 days and have fallen in love with the country already.
The 19:30 Anec Superfast Ferry took us from Bari Port to Igoumenitsa, arriving at 5.30am (Italian Time) - 6.30am (Greek Time). 


Being escorted out of Bari Port by a little tug boat
On board camping was quite an experience.  Hook-ups come down from the ceiling to plug your electric in and then you use everything like you were parked up on a site.  Gas is forbidden to be used for safety reasons.  We had a good place with a sea view for the evening and a lovely cool sea breeze with the motorhome door and windows open.
View from our Sonny (the motorhome) for the night
The Italians behind us decided to take the ‘camping on board' a step further and got out their camping chairs!

Security was very lax getting on and off the ferry.  There were no passport checks either end, we only had to show our tickets to get on and then once into Greece you drive straight off the ferry and you are away.  No wonder there are so many terrorists coming through this way!
When we got off the ferry it had been raining and was a cool 23°C.  We certainly were not complaining having endured temperatures of over 40°C the last few weeks in Sicily and Italy.  We filled up with fuel and LPG, as there was a station as soon as you leave the port.  Fuel is so much cheaper in Greece than in Italy, only €1.20 p/litre and in Italy on average we paid €1.30.
We only have 3 weeks in Greece before travelling into Bulgaria.  It is such a big country so we have decided to just explore the North and Central parts of Greece in and around the mountains.
7.30am and we are in the mountains
Enjoying our first coffee/breakfast stop in Greece up in the mountains.


Driving down on of the winding roads we had to swerve to avoid this tortoise crossing the road.
Road sign says beware of cows crossing, but we think it needs a 'beware of tortoises' crossing!
Greece isn’t really geared up for motorhomes in the way that France, Italy and Germany are, as nobody owns them in this country.  They have very few campsites and the ones they have are mostly on the coast.  Some of the towns have recently put in motorhome parking spots but they are very basic and only a few have fresh water taps and somewhere to dispose of your waste.  We have discovered that Tavernas let you park on their site and provide you with all the facilities for free if you take a meal in their restaurant.  So that’s what we will be doing a lot of!
Armed with a Greek phrase book we have been practicing some basic phrases but so far the Greek people we have met speak better English than the Italians so that’s good!  The alphabet is a bit like the Cyrillic alphabet - so glad I remembered most of it from my Bulgarian days!
Our first stop leaving Igoumenitsa was the lakeside town of Ioánnina.
Lake Pamvótis
It is associated with locally infamous Muslim Albanian hero/villain Ali Pasha (known as “the Lion of Ioánnina”.  He frequently attacked the Ottoman authorities and engaged in appalling acts of savagery against his Greek subjects but for some he is remembered as a defier of Istanbul, the common enemy.  There are some stone-built mosques and Ali Pasha’s citadel.

Our first night was spent 850m above sea level overlooking the beautiful Lake Pamvótis and Ioánnina in a little village, Ligkiades (N39.69065 E 20.88856).

Time to add the Greece sticker to the map on the back of the motorhome!  Our 10th country/principality visited in 7 months.
Map showing where we have travelled with Sonny, the motorhome.
From here we headed towards the Pindhos Mountains, known as the Zagóri and visited the Vikos Gorge.  It is the world’s deepest canyon and made its way into the Guinness Book of Records in 1997. With walls almost 1000m high in places.

Vikos Gorge
The inside of the Monastery of Saint Paraskevi, built in 1412 on the steep rock overlooking Vikos Gorge.

Mel decided to take the risk to head on deeper into the gorge - I didn't!

Leaving the gorge we spent the night at a motorhome stop in Kalpaki (N39.88535 E20.62354)
Mel loves this country because every time you order a drink in Greece you get some free food - meze style.
Enjoying a beer in Kalpaki
This morning we set off from Kalpaki and headed to Metsova.  The route we took zig-zags through the mountain with some stunning scenery.

Or you can take an alternative motorway route (Via Egnatia expressway) through 60 tunnels!
Via Egnatia expressway
Metsova is a small touristy Alpine town, with lots of wooden souvenirs made from the Olive Tree wood.

Some 'old men' carved faces in trees
A 30 minute walk south of the town, down a steep ravine takes you to the old 14th century monastery of Saint Nikólaos.




and a reminder on this tree that we are in ‘brown bear country’!!

We are currently parked up outside a Taverna 1,390 metres in the Pindos Mountains near a ski resort , for the night (N39.78083 E21.16222).

Tomorrow we head to Kalambaka and to see the Meteora.


Sally x

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