Siracusa, Ortigia and the Baroque towns of Val di Noto

We have spent the night on a free Sosta at Ragusa (N36°55'31" E14° 44'12"), that has a great outlook up to the old town on the hill.

The car park at the bottom of Ragusa

We left the campsite Paradiso del Mare (N36°56'18" E15°10'39") yesterday and said goodbye to our Dutch friends, Richard and Carla.  We have met up with them 3 times now on Sicily; having first met at Campsite La Focetta Sicula, then at Mount Etna and now spent 4 nights with them at Paradiso.  They are good fun and we have exchanged details, so if we don’t meet them again on our travels around Sicily, we have arranged to meet them in Amsterdam later in the year on our way back to the UK.

Richard and Carla all packed up and ready to hit the road again.  Carla was quick to point to the scratches on the side of their motorhome, as Richard had tried to negotiate a narrow town in Italy that their SatNav had take them down!

We have had 4 great days and nights here, chilling on the beach – although weekends you struggle to find your way through to the sea, as the Italians plant their umbrellas in the sand as close to one another as they can.

Trying to negotiate our way through the umbrellas and towels on the beach to get to the sea!

We also had a couple of rides out on the scooter.  A 15km ride north from the campsite took us along the coastal road to Syracuse, the birthplace of Archimedes (one of the most prominent scientific thinkers of the ancient Greek world).  He was born around 287BC in the city but little is known about this great thinker, who died around 212BC – killed by a Roman foot soldier during the second Punic War and is said to be buried in Siracusa near to the ancient theatre.

This way to Archimedes tomb

The tiny island of Ortigia (1km long by 0.5km wide) is linked to Syracuse by 2 bridges.  It was the original Greek settlement before spreading out to Saracusa. The little narrow streets are a mix of late medieval and Baroque.  The temple of Apollo sits in a small park surrounded by railings.  Erected in 570BC it was the first grand Doric temple to be built in Sicily, although today apart from a couple of columns there is not a lot to see.

Temple of Apollo

Up near the temple is a large Market, selling some lovely fish but not sure what these long silver ones were.

Ortigia’s sunbathing area – wooden decking reached by a flight of metal steps looks like it has seen better days.  But on a hot day a swim in the sea by any means is always welcome - the dog with his owner certainly seemed to enjoy it!

Piazza del Duomo and Cathedral (Temple of Minerva)

Next to Fonte Aretusa, looking towards Maniace Castle at the tip of Ortigia.

It’s amazing how many museums claim to be Leonardo di Vinci originals.  We first came across one in Vinci (his birthplace), then another one when we visited Florence, and now one in Ortigia – it seems that they all want to own a piece of him!

15kms south of the campsite took us to Noto.  In 1693 an earthquake totally destroyed the original towns and villages of Sicily’s Southeastern bulge, which were rebuilt as new planned towns in an opulent Baroque style.  Eight of these are now protected by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites.

Noto is one such town restored to its original apricot and honey limestone facades.

They even decorate their steps here!

Beautiful baroque balconies of galloping horses and fat-cheeked cherubs

Beautiful baroque balconies of galloping horses and fat-cheeked cherubs, Noto

Having left the campsite we headed for Modica, which is famous for the production of chocolate and another town affected by the 1693 earthquake.  We parked in a free Sosta at the bottom of the town and took a slow climb up to the old town. The town is beautiful with its Baroque architecture and is watched over at the top of a vast flight of steps is San Giorgio.

On the steps of San Giorgio.

We popped in to a shop where you could taste the different varieties and it definitely wasn’t to our liking.  It is a very strong and bitter taste, made without cocoa butter and heat, so that the sugar doesn’t melt and that gives it an unusual crunchy texture.

So many varieties of Modica chocolate including carrot, sea salt and chilli flavours!

When we came out we got a nice surprise – an Italian cleaner.  The first one we have seen on Sicily cleaning up all the rubbish - albeit with an old fashioned brush and dustbin! Although Sicily doesn't appear to be as dirty as mainland Italy. Modica is our official 'cleanest place' we have visited in Sicily.

Cleaning up in Modica - he seemed really happy in his work!

From here we drove to a few kilometres around to Ragusa.  It is a town of two parts as it was literally split in two by the earthquake of 1693.  Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla, both rebuilt in baroque style.  It is a steep climb up to the towns, and all by steps.

Looking towards Ragusa Ibla, on the outcrop of rock from Saint Maria Della Scala, Ragusa Superiore

There are so many churches in Ragusa we lost count, but it was a great to just go in them and cool down a while from the relentless heat of the sun.  When we arrived at the cathedral a Sicilian wedding was about to take place.  The bride's dress was beautiful but she was having trouble getting it under control!

Luckily we were able to go in and have a look whilst the wedding was taking place, although it did feel a bit intrusive.

Wedding taking place in the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista

Having done lots of climbing up around Modica and Ragusa Superiore we decided to leave Ragusa Ibla for the next day.  However, when night fell and the town lit up it looked lovely so we did an evening walk!  Unfortunately, I only had my phone with me so pictures not brilliant! 

The Duomo and little train on Ragusa Ibla

The little train was operating around the town until midnight!  We came across this art shop, but unfortunately the picture doesn't do justice too!

We move on again this morning to Marina Di Ragusa, as we need to be near the cool breeze of the sea!

Sally x