Monday 26 March 2018

From the Costa del Sol back to the hills of Antequera


Leaving Estepona we headed further around the coast to Marbella.  First stop though was the launderette.  We had noticed that a lot of the Repsol garages have a ‘lavomatic’, so we thought we would give the Estepona one a go.
An hour and half later, a 14kg wash and dry all done for €11 (including washing powder and softner), which we thought was quite good value.  We were then on our way to Marbella.  I was last here in 1983 and remember it was the playground for the rich and famous but now it is a big holiday resort, so it was going to be interesting to see the changes.
We found a free Aire 10kms west of Marbella, right on the sea and next to a beach bar/ restaurant.
Sonny, the motorhome enjoying his coastal home for a couple of nights
The Aire is also next to an old watchtower - Torre Lance de Las Cañas
Along this coastline are centuries old watchtowers.  They are of Nasrid (Arab) origin and once formed part of a defensive system of the coast.  Smoke signals were made during the day and light signals used at night-time, to warn in case of an enemy landing.  After a long walk along the beach, it was time to enjoy a cold glass of wine and soak up some more rays.
and watch the sun go down.
The Aire is about 12kms from Marbella town.  We had planned to get the scooter off and ride into Marbella but the only road in was down a very busy dual carriageway.  So, we took the motorhome, which turned out not to be the best of plans.  Marbella is definitely not geared up for motorhomes, it is so built up and parking proved to be a nightmare.  We headed out of the town ready to go back to the Aire when we spotted a McDonald’s and managed to find a spot big enough to park.  Not being a fan of McDonald's food, we had not intention of eating in here and just hoped we wouldn’t get wheel-clamped!
A 2km walk downhill took us down by the marina, we thought the palm trees were going to get uprooted it was so windy – good job we hadn’t come by scooter!
Along the Avenida del Mar are 5 pieces of bronzed art by Salvador Dali (the Spanish surrealist artist), his style of work is definitely unusual.
Across the road from here is a little park, that was looking very ‘uncared for’ and a fountain that sadly wasn’t working.
Then up to the old town, which surprisingly is very small.  It doesn’t take long to walk up and down the pretty streets of white washed buildings, upmarket shops, couple of churches and around the castle wall remains.
Orange Tree Square
Castle Walls

This pretty little street had planters all the way up
It was refreshing to see that Marbella hasn’t been overrun by Ex-Pats, unlike Estepona.  That said, although it's a lot more upmarket than Estepona, we preferred the old town and sea front of Estepona.
The next day we continued around the coast heading for Malaga. This coastline is so built up with hotels and high-rise buildings and neon signs – it’s like a concrete jungle!
We decided it was time to turn off this road and head back to the hills, this time to Antequera.  We were last here at the end of April 2017 and have lots of fond memories of this ancient town.
The Aire (N37.0215 W4.57198) takes 16 motorhomes and we were lucky to get the last place. It has all of Sonny’s requirements – fresh water and chemical toilet/grey waste disposal so all was good!  Not long after we took up residence, 15 more turned up and created their own Aire just around the corner on a carpark.  There is a mix of mostly Spanish and French and a few Germans,  Italians, Danish, Dutch and a couple of us Brits.  We weren’t sure why it was so busy until we walked in to the town for a Tapas – it was then we saw the road closure signs for Semana Santa.  Yes, it was that time again, the start of the Holy Week and the Easter Processions.
The town has lots of cafés/bars, restaurants and shops.  First stop for us though was food!  We had eaten here last year (La Cantina) so knew the food and service was going to be good.
Large prawns, fried octopus, pork kebabs and an egg dish with asparagus an ham, washed down with red wine!
Time to walk off the food and wine!  Antequera, like many Spanish hillside towns is built in the shadow of its castle on the hill.

A steep walk up to the castle, looking back towards the town


There are some great views across the valley from the top
Panoramic view from the castle
Back in the town, it was time for some window shopping.  Checking out the flamenco dresses -  I would love to learn how to do flamenco but can’t really see myself in one of these!

Pretty little courtyard in the centre of town
Then it was time to watch the procession!  Spain is well known for its Holy week traditions – known as Semana Santa, celebrating the countries Roman Catholic heritage.  The processions of the brotherhoods/fraternities are a big thing in all the cities, towns and villages.  We have seen many over the years (the best one for us being in Seville), but usually on the Easter weekend.  It appears that Antequera has parades through the town from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday. 
The parade consists of adults and children wearing robes and carrying candles and crosses.  The thrones (of Jesus and the Virgin Mary) are carried on the shoulders by about 60 men.  These things are heavy and are only carried a few feet before the bearers have a rest.  In front of them is the ‘big brother’ who guides the brotherhoods during the procession
The procession is accompanied by a brass band and drummer boys.  The music is a bit high pitched and a lot of banging of the drums but is just about tolerable!

The procession then stops outside the Town hall and church (iglesia de los Remedios) where the dignitaries get their photos taken and some papers are signed – not sure what that’s all about! 
Everyone lines the streets to watch it come by and then there's big celebrations in the town afterwards with bars staying open until the early hours of the morning.
Luckily the Aire is on the edge of the town, so we weren't disturbed!

Sally x

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