Sunday 18 March 2018

High up in the Andalucían hills – in the Berber village of Benarrabá


We are on a beautiful Aire in Benarrabá (N36.54935 W5.27901).  There are spaces for 5 motorhomes and each space has its own fresh water tap, chemical toilet and grey waste disposal, plus electric. Last year it was all free when we stayed here but now it is €10 a night, €15 for 2 and €20 for 3, or free if you don’t want any facilities. These Aires are built and paid for by the town and rely on motorhomers spending money in their village but I’m guessing over the years this hasn’t happened and now they are having to charge.
We opted for 3 nights at €20, good value we thought– and just for the wonderful views alone!
The village sits on the slopes of Mount Poron, 522m high.  Like most villages in these parts of southern Spain, it's of Berber origin, and its name comes from the old meaning Banu Rabbah (Son of Rabbah), having been founded by the Berber tribe of that name.  The town is a maze of streets but it’s not big and you can’t get lost!


Casa del Cabildo - 18th century house that was home to a religious order.


The only little shop in the village that sells nearly everything!
Benarrabá made its money (and still seems to) from cork, stripping the lower sections of the trees every 9 to 10 years.  Clever what they can make with it!
Cork planters
There are lots of painted ceramics in the town and information boards that are in English as well as Spanish.
Birds that can be seen in the area

Olive oil making information and the old mill that was used
There are plenty of walking routes from the town as well, and are clearly marked.
Walking routes from the town
We set out early morning to do the 13km figure of eight route from Benarrabá to Genalguacíl.  At the edge of the town a little dog insisted on walking the route with us, no matter how hard we tried to shake him off.  He had a collar on but no tag, so we weren’t sure if he belonged to someone in the village or he was a stray.  He was a lovely little dog and we named him Mutley for the day and gave up trying to send him back to the town!
The route took us along steep narrow paths, through ancient forests of cork oak and chestnut trees, and wonderful views along the Genal valley

Unfortunately, when we got to the floor of the valley to cross the river, the low bridge was under water and was flowing far too quickly for us to attempt to cross it.  Although Mutley had other ideas, and had a few attempts to cross it and nearly got swept away.
There was no other way to cross the river to get up to Genalguacíl, so we picked up another trail back to Benarrabá, all uphill!

We came across a citrus grove, where Mel decided to try out the fruit
We were disappointed that we didn’t get to see Genalguacíl, but we had visited it last year and if you want to see pictures of the lovely town then they can be viewed at the end of this blog I posted last year:
The sun was shining when we got back to the Aire, so it was time for a bit of bird watching!
A Hoopoe
The Rock Bunting
Undeterred by the looming wet weather we decided to chance another walk the next day - the 7.9 km circular route of Sendero Llanos del Rey
Through more of those cork oak forests, where the cork is harvested in rotation every 9-10 years.  Loved seeing how they had been cut and evidence of the cork growing back again.

At the end of the walk we were wet through, so it was time for a beer and some tapas in the local pub!


Sally x

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