From the unusaul rocks of El Torcal to the impressive outcrop rock of Ronda

We decided to stop another day at Antequera so we could visit the unusual limestone rocks of El Torcal. They sit 1300m high, about 9kms south of Antequera, up a steep and winding road to the car park at the bottom.  We didn’t get there until about 2pm and figured being a Monday it would be quiet, unfortunately we hadn’t factored in that it is holiday time in Spain and it was chocka and not a spare parking space in sight.  We weren’t in any hurry though and about 15 minutes later a space came free.  Most people take the shuttle bus to the top from here, but we took the 3.5km scenic walk up – a climb of just over 400m.  It was worth the walk as the views and rocks going up gave you a flavour of what you would see at the top.

Unusual to find this renovated hut on the walk up

At the top, there is a visitors centre and from here you can take a choice of 2 walks ( a short and a long route) taking you around El Torcal.  We chose the long one (3.5kms), not wanting to miss anything!

Watch your step Mel!

The El Torcal rock formation has been formed as a result of an accumulation of shells and skeletons of marine animals deposited on the floor of the sea, that covered this area during the Jurassic period – approximately 200 million years ago.  Then, around 20 million years ago the sediments were compressed, deformed and fractured until they emerged slowly into this incredible landscape. Due to weathering and erosion, the rocks are constantly changing resulting in this impressive landscape.

Found this little fella hiding in the rocks on the way back down to the car park

When we got back down to the car park, about 6.30pm the car park was empty.  We were tempted to wild camp here for the night as the views were stunning. 

However, we had heard from other motorhomers that you can get moved on and so decided to head back down to the Aire at Antequera for the night, which now was overflowing – 36 of us on an Aire that only takes 18!  The downside was it was very noisy as the Spanish motorhomers seemed to want to party into the night – so we didn’t get much sleep.

The next day we moved on to an Aire at Campillos (N37.04282 W4.863490), only 33kms west in the direction of Ronda.  It's a pretty drive and was lined both sides virtually all the way with olive trees, new and old as far as the eye could see.  They like their olives and olive oil in Spain!

It's a small and very quiet Aire (takes 6) with all facilities. The weather was hot, so we didn’t want to be sat in Sonny too long.  It is a sleepy little town, with not much going on. The nicest area is just off the town’s central plaza, with a little garden and church but not an awful lot more to see.  

It was a nice day to relax though and give Sonny a good ‘spring clean’.  We got talking to an English guy from Nottingham who brought a 4 bed house here in 2005 for €145,000 close to the Aire. He has been living here on and off since then and said he couldn’t sell even if he wanted as it is now only worth €90.  All thanks to the mess those banks got us in!

Having had a good nights sleep, we were up and on the road early today heading for Ronda, about 50kms away. We weren’t sure how busy the Aire was going to be and wanted to be there for 10ish and have a full day looking around Ronda – one of our favourite towns in Spain.

The Aire (N36.75188 W5.14798) is new and they are still finishing it off in parts.  For €10 you get everything including Wi-Fi and there is even somewhere to wash and hoover out your motorhome for an extra €1, and a dedicated dog walking area – well done Ronda!

A 30 minute walk from the Aire and we were at Puente Neuvo.   Ronda is one of the most ancient cities in Spain, built on a rock that is spectacularly split by the 120 metre deep Tajo gorge. Both sides are joined by the 18th century Puente Nuevo (bridge).

Puente Nuevo

A long and steep walk down - Puente Nuevo 

Ronda can get up to 75,000 people visiting it daily and we have been here previous years when it has been very busy with coach loads tourists - mostly Chinese and Japanese.  Being Easter week it was no exception - very busy popular once again.

Ronda's bullring is an elegant double-tiered arcade of Tuscan columns, constructed in sandstone.  It is the widest in the world and one of the oldest in Spain.  Ronda is the birthplace of bull fighting, the first fight took place in 1785.  It now stages only a few prestigious fights a year;

Bullring, Ronda

There is a museum just off the bullring walk that gives a  good insight into the cultural history of bulls and bullfighting and an interesting exhibition of costumes, photographs, harness and livery collection, along with an antique fire-arms collection belonging to Louis XIV, Napoleon and English monarchs form the 17^th-19^th century.  There is also a School of Equestrianism here, dedicated to teaching and training riders in classic horse riding on Spanish thoroughbred horses.

Mel decided to give me his best pose as a bull fighter - Mmm, I don't think he has quite got the look I was hoping for!

Palacio de Mondragon – one of Ronda’s most beautiful palaces, dating from 1314

Iglesia de Santa Maria la Mayor

Minarete de San Sebastian – the14^th century tower is all that remains of a Nasrid mosque

Even though Ronda is very touristy, it was still lovely revisiting this magical town once again.

Sally x

From the Costa del Sol back to the hills of Antequera

Leaving Estepona we headed further around the coast to Marbella.  First stop though was the launderette.  We had noticed that a lot of the Repsol garages have a ‘lavomatic’, so we thought we would give the Estepona one a go.

An hour and half later, a 14kg wash and dry all done for €11 (including washing powder and softner), which we thought was quite good value.  We were then on our way to Marbella.  I was last here in 1983 and remember it was the playground for the rich and famous but now it is a big holiday resort, so it was going to be interesting to see the changes.

We found a free Aire 10kms west of Marbella, right on the sea and next to a beach bar/ restaurant.

Sonny, the motorhome enjoying his coastal home for a couple of nights

The Aire is also next to an old watchtower - Torre Lance de Las Cañas

Along this coastline are centuries old watchtowers.  They are of Nasrid (Arab) origin and once formed part of a defensive system of the coast.  Smoke signals were made during the day and light signals used at night-time, to warn in case of an enemy landing.  After a long walk along the beach, it was time to enjoy a cold glass of wine and soak up some more rays.

and watch the sun go down.

The Aire is about 12kms from Marbella town.  We had planned to get the scooter off and ride into Marbella but the only road in was down a very busy dual carriageway.  So, we took the motorhome, which turned out not to be the best of plans.  Marbella is definitely not geared up for motorhomes, it is so built up and parking proved to be a nightmare.  We headed out of the town ready to go back to the Aire when we spotted a McDonald’s and managed to find a spot big enough to park.  Not being a fan of McDonald's food, we had not intention of eating in here and just hoped we wouldn’t get wheel-clamped!

A 2km walk downhill took us down by the marina, we thought the palm trees were going to get uprooted it was so windy – good job we hadn’t come by scooter!

Along the Avenida del Mar are 5 pieces of bronzed art by Salvador Dali (the Spanish surrealist artist), his style of work is definitely unusual.

Across the road from here is a little park, that was looking very ‘uncared for’ and a fountain that sadly wasn’t working.

Then up to the old town, which surprisingly is very small.  It doesn’t take long to walk up and down the pretty streets of white washed buildings, upmarket shops, couple of churches and around the castle wall remains.

Orange Tree Square

Castle Walls

This pretty little street had planters all the way up

It was refreshing to see that Marbella hasn’t been overrun by Ex-Pats, unlike Estepona.  That said, although it's a lot more upmarket than Estepona, we preferred the old town and sea front of Estepona.

The next day we continued around the coast heading for Malaga. This coastline is so built up with hotels and high-rise buildings and neon signs – it’s like a concrete jungle!

We decided it was time to turn off this road and head back to the hills, this time to Antequera.  We were last here at the end of April 2017 and have lots of fond memories of this ancient town.

The Aire (N37.0215 W4.57198) takes 16 motorhomes and we were lucky to get the last place. It has all of Sonny’s requirements – fresh water and chemical toilet/grey waste disposal so all was good!  Not long after we took up residence, 15 more turned up and created their own Aire just around the corner on a carpark.  There is a mix of mostly Spanish and French and a few Germans,  Italians, Danish, Dutch and a couple of us Brits.  We weren’t sure why it was so busy until we walked in to the town for a Tapas – it was then we saw the road closure signs for Semana Santa.  Yes, it was that time again, the start of the Holy Week and the Easter Processions.

The town has lots of cafés/bars, restaurants and shops.  First stop for us though was food!  We had eaten here last year (La Cantina) so knew the food and service was going to be good.

Large prawns, fried octopus, pork kebabs and an egg dish with asparagus an ham, washed down with red wine!

Time to walk off the food and wine!  Antequera, like many Spanish hillside towns is built in the shadow of its castle on the hill.

A steep walk up to the castle, looking back towards the town

There are some great views across the valley from the top

Panoramic view from the castle

Back in the town, it was time for some window shopping.  Checking out the flamenco dresses -  I would love to learn how to do flamenco but can’t really see myself in one of these!

Pretty little courtyard in the centre of town

Then it was time to watch the procession!  Spain is well known for its Holy week traditions – known as Semana Santa, celebrating the countries Roman Catholic heritage.  The processions of the brotherhoods/fraternities are a big thing in all the cities, towns and villages.  We have seen many over the years (the best one for us being in Seville), but usually on the Easter weekend.  It appears that Antequera has parades through the town from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday. 

The parade consists of adults and children wearing robes and carrying candles and crosses.  The thrones (of Jesus and the Virgin Mary) are carried on the shoulders by about 60 men.  These things are heavy and are only carried a few feet before the bearers have a rest.  In front of them is the ‘big brother’ who guides the brotherhoods during the procession

The procession is accompanied by a brass band and drummer boys.  The music is a bit high pitched and a lot of banging of the drums but is just about tolerable!

The procession then stops outside the Town hall and church (iglesia de los Remedios) where the dignitaries get their photos taken and some papers are signed – not sure what that’s all about! 

Everyone lines the streets to watch it come by and then there's big celebrations in the town afterwards with bars staying open until the early hours of the morning.

Luckily the Aire is on the edge of the town, so we weren't disturbed!

Sally x

From the Pueblo Blanco of Casares to the white-washed old town of Estepona

Leaving Benarrabá we headed a short distance south to the pueblo blanco (white village) of Casares.  It was only 24kms but took us a little over an hour to get here given the winding, steep roads but the views over the Andalucía countryside were stunning.

We parked Sonny (the motorhome) up on a free Aire at the edge of the town next to a disused tourist information office N36.44611 W5.27833.  The town has kindly provided free water and facilities to dump your waste, so we will be repaying them by eating and drinking in their town – well it would be rude not to!

Circling high above us are 15-20 griffon vultures, riding the thermals back and forth between the rocks.  It is an amazing sight to see.

Casares is built high up on a rock face, a cluster of white houses with terracotta roofs.

A short walk down from the Aire and across the medieval bridge of La Albarrá beneath Casares.

And back up the other side brings you into the centre of the town and to the remains of an old castle, where there is a great lookout point where you can sit in the shadows of the griffon vultures as they soar above you.

The castle dates from the Arab-Moorish period and is the origin of the town.  Built on top of the rock it held a good defensive position.  Heading out from the motorhome we got on a circular walk around the Sierra de Crestellina and to the top of Cerro de las Chapas.

That’s where we are headed - red arrow marks the spot!

You can see North Africa and The Rock of Gibraltar in the distance from here

A hazy Rock of Gibraltar

Mel trying to find the way - there’s a path in here somewhere!

That’s where we are headed

At the top of Cerro de las Chapas and very windswept!

There's a big colony of griffon vultures up here and coming back down we spotted some in the rocks, taking a break from flying those therms.

We made it off the mountain just before more rain and high winds set in.  
From Casares we headed south to the Costa del Sol in search of some sun.  The weather in Spain this year, like all over Europe has been terrible.  Speaking to a German/English couple on the Aire, who had been in Morocco for 3 months, they said even the weather was bad there with quite a bit of snow.
First stop Estepona, where we found another free Aire down by the marina (N36.41488 W5.16024) and sun!  There are no facilities but a lovely spot to call home for a couple of nights.

Sonny, enjoying some sun at last at Estepona Marina

Walking up to the town we couldn’t believe how many English voices we heard and English owned bars/cafés, shops and estate agents.  It is obviously popular with British expats.  Data sim cards are cheap here though, we bought a 4GB card for one month useage for 10 Euros.  In the UK we paid £15 (approx 17 Euros) for a 3GB data only card that lasts 2 months.
The paths along the coast are tree-lined and planted up with a lot of palm trees and cactus, plus a lot of high rise holiday apartments and neon signs.  We can imagine in summer this place is chocka with tourists.

The old town is very pretty and we enjoyed walking up and down the numerous white washed streets.  All of the houses have different coloured flowerpots outside, that would appear to be paid for and maintained by the town.

Plaza de las Flores

Andalusian style courtyard

Mural paintings on the houses here

It appears that we have swapped the vultures in the mountains for another type of bird here – it looks like a parakeet hiding in the palm trees by the marina.

Mel relaxing and watching the boats come in an out of the marina

Watching the sun set over Gibraltar

Sally x