Christmas Time at Lyon

Hope you all had a Merry Christmas – we certainly did, as we spent it on a campsite on the outskirts of Lyon. Before that though we had a stopover at Susa. We left the snow-capped alps at Turin, and headed 50kms west to be surrounded by more snow.

Leaving Turin

Our one night stop over at Susa was on a free Sosta, you just paid for electric. (N45.1388 E7.05383). The small town is near to the Italy/France border and surrounded by snowy mountains.

Sonny, surrounded by more snow at Susa

Not long after we arrived, the local motorbike group gathered in the car park near to the Sosta.  They were aged from about 5 to 70 and all were dressed up as Santa Claus and rode around the town - not quite sure if it was in aid of charity or they just fancied dressing up!

Susa Santa Bikers

It's a lovely old town, with some lovely medieval buildings and Roman ruins.

Roman ruins - Arch of Augustas and Roman Aqueduct

A strange thing happened during the night.  We were surrounded by snow, strong winds got up blowing in hot air and temperatures rose from 4°C to 19°C - very weird!

Temperature on Sonny's gauge as we set off - 19°C

We had an early Christmas Eve start, as we headed to a campsite at Lyon to spend Christmas.  The weather got colder the closer we got to the Frejus tunnel, soon dropping to 3°C.  The tunnel is 13kms long and cuts through the Cottian Alps and runs under the Col de Frejus - 2.542m high (8,340ft).  It was opened in 1980, took 6 years to construct and very expensive. It cost 2 billion Francs (equivalent to £700 million).

It was a very expensive day for us too with the tolls.  It cost €8 to get around Turin and to the Frejus Tunnel, the tunnel cost a further €59.80 and then 2 French Tolls at €37 - €104.80 in all!
The campsite is at a little town called St-Genis-Laval, just outside Lyon (N45.68703 E4.78622). It costs €26 a night and isn't an ACSI site, so no discount for us.  There were 9 other motorhomes here over Christmas, a mix of French, German, Spanish and us Brits.

Enjoying the sun on the campsite - and no snow in sight!

We took the local bus in to Lyon, about a 15 minute ride. Lyon is over 2,000 years old, built on the confluence of Rivers Rhone and Saone, it is known as the culinary capital of the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

La Place Bellecour – one of the largest open squares in Europe

We crossed the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge to the old town and took the Fenicular railway to the top of Fourviere Hill. Unfortunately, it is enclosed in a tunnel so you don’t get any views of the city until you get out at the top.  Within the tunnel are Roman artefacts in the niches but blink and you miss them. No idea why they put them in the tunnel.

On the Fourviere Hill stands the magnificent Basilica, the oldest part of the city.

Notre-Dame de Fourviere

View from the top of the hill

Lyon’s Gothic Cathedral - the majority of the original stained-glass windows remain as they were dismantled and packed away during WW2 to save them from bomb damage

Astronomical Clock, installed in the 1300s.  Underneath is an astrolabe, that can show the position of the earth, sun and moon

'The Weight of Oneself’ sculpture.  Depicting a man carrying himself and tells the story of someone trying to save himself.

Cinema museum of over 450 authentic props and costumes including those from Batman

It was then time for mulled wine and a quick walk around the Christmas Market before heading back to the campsite.

Mulled Wine Time!

All set for Christmas

We went all French/Italian for Christmas dinner.  Starter of Camembert, olives and Parma ham, main course of Beef Bourguignon, garlic potatoes and Brussels sprouts, followed by a triple chocolate French dessert. Washed down with Prosecco, red/white wine and Limoncello - hic!

We have come far enough north west now to pick up English TV.  So, that meant only one thing lots of Christmas films!  All the usual repeats and ones we have seen umpteen times but we didn't care as it has been many months since we have watched UK TV!  It was our first Christmas away from home since being married and did feel a little strange but after phone calls to our son and daughter all was good.

We move on tomorrow heading further north through France.

Sally x

Turin – on the trail of the ‘Italian Job’

Leaving a foggy Milan, we headed to Turin.  Given the weather we took the tolled motorway again - €20 for just over 100miles.  We parked up on a Sosta at Collegno (N45.08099 E7.58184) on the outskirts of Turin (or Torino as it is called in Italy).  We are not city lovers but did enjoy Milan and as fans of the 1969 film ‘The Italian Job’ we had to come to Turin to check out the areas used in the film, plus we had read that it was a beautiful city. From the Sosta it’s 10 minute walk to the metro and a €4 all-day ticket lets you hop on and off anywhere in and around Turin.

For those who haven’t seen the film, it’s basically about petty thief Charlie Croker (aka Michael Caine) who leads a team of cockney crooks through the streets of Turin after stealing $4million of Chinese gold that has been sent to Italy as a deposit for a new car factory.  Part of the gang take 3 mini Coopers filled with the gold that they have just stolen from the city, the others are disguised as football supporters and leave in a mini bus. Their escape is hampered by a traffic jam, that they created to distract the local police and Mafia chasing after them.  As a result, they have to find another way out of the city that involves them driving through some of Turin’s architectural buildings and iconic landmarks.  Our first stop was Lingotto (a scene used by the film) and to the original Fiat factory.  Fiat’s Headquarters are still here but the factory has been relocated.

Apparently, the Fiat car was built slowly on different levels in the factory, eventually making it to the top floor.  The completed car would then emerge onto the rooftop, where it was tested on the purpose built race track.  The track was one of the areas used in the film, where they were chased by the police. The factory is now a massive leisure complex and hotel.  To get to the top floor you enter through a book shop and take a glass sided lift to the top and to what is now a collection of art donated by the head of the Fiat dynasty.  Unfortunately, the only way to access the track is to buy a ticket for the gallery which costs €8.  We had no interest in stumping up €16 to see the paintings, so we asked the lady behind the desk if we could just pop out and take a photo but she was having none of it.  If you want to see the track you have to buy a ticket, she said.  Luckily there is glass to one side and we cheekily took a few photos and then headed back down in the lift.

The curved part of the race track

The Fiat Track - scene from the Italian Job

We then nipped back onto the metro and to the centre of Turin.  It comprises of one 13.2km line that starts from where we were staying, Collegno (south of Turin) and runs through to Lingotto (21 stations). The first part of the line opened in time for the 2006 winter Olympics, it is a driver less line and the platforms are separated from the tracks by screen doors that only open when the train arrives in the station – a good safety system.  Next, we walked up Via Romo, only affording to window shop at all the expensive designer shops.

Two gigantic nudes representing the 2 rivers of Turin - River Po and Dora

We then made our way to Piazza San Carlo a beautiful Piazza, with more expensive shops and Cafés.

There was a demonstration taking place, with people draped in EU flags walking around a Christmas tree. I asked one of the young girls what was happening.  She told me they were trying to get signatures (they need one million) so the government would change the laws on immigration.  She said they were not opposed to immigrants coming in but just wanted a better system – amen to that!

Giant Advent Calendar in the Piazza

Gallerina San Ferico A stunning mix of Baroque grandeur to Art Nouveau. Another scene where the gang drove through chased by a police motorbike and skidded on the wet floor.  Luckily for us the floor was dry!

We walked through the Piazza Castello and to the Palazzo Madama, home to what they say is one of the most beautiful staircases in the world.  And yes, you guessed it, in one of the films scenes the minis drove down it!

Palazzo Madama staircase, as far as you can get unless you buy a ticket

The staircase scene from the film

Behind the Palazzo Madama is a huge monument dedicated to Duke Emanuel Filberto – Italian general and member of the House of Savoy.

There was also a lovely Christmas market to have a mooch around. Turin is famous for its chocolate and these looked too good to eat:

The Cathedral, St John the Baptist is home to The Shroud of Turin, which bears the image of a crucified man.  The Shroud is said to be the cloth Jesus was wrapped in after his crucifixion; although carbon-dated tests and later forensic tests carried out prove otherwise, and call it ‘the most remarkable forgery in history’. These claims are being disputed, testing goes on and will continue to be a hotly debated question. The church only displays the cloth every 25 years, so you have to make do with a copy of it and the glass box that it sits in. True or false, your call!

Above the entrance doors is a reproduction (oil painting) of Leonardo da Vinci’s famed Last Supper.

Mole Antonelliana - major landmark in Turin (167m high).  Built as a synagogue and now home of the National Museum of Cinema.  Nice building from a distance but ugly close up!

Although a museum of cinema, it apparently makes no reference to The Italian Job film.  It is thought the reason being is that the Brits trick, foil and triumph over the Italians.  Plus, the portrayal of Italians in the movie isn’t flattering – ridiculing the police, Mafia mobsters and local people in general.

River Po and the weir that the minis drove over

The 'weir scene' from The Italian Job. The minis crossed the wear on the final stage of their getaway – no idea how they did it!

Chiesa di Gran Madre Di Dio – another scene where the minis drive down and interrupt a wedding

The drive down the steps, interrupting a wedding as they outwit the police with their stolen gold bullion. Ironically there are no roads that lead to the top so goodness knows how they did that scene.

The inside of the church is small but ornate with a beautiful domed roof

You get a great view from the top of the church steps, across the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge straddling the River Po and views of the snow-caped Alps.  It was built in 1807 under the order of Napoleon who ruled the region for nearly 15 years.  When Vittorio Emanuel defeated Napoleon and liberated Turin he removed every trace of Napoleonic influence apart from the bridge.  As a way of ridiculing the French, he encouraged people to trample across it and never forget their triumph over French occupation.  The bridge was then renamed in Vittorio’s honour.

Church and Convent of Saint Maria on the 284 m high Monte desi Cappuccini (from the bridge)

Piazza Satuto - the fountain of the Frejus Tunnel. A pyramid created in 1879 made up of stones from the Frejus Tunnel.  We will be heading through the tunnel to get into France to avoid going over the Alps.

After our expensive meal in Milan, lunch was a modest meal of Arancini - rice balls stuffed with ragu, Mozzarella, ham and peas, coated in bread crumbs and fried and they are really quite tasty.  We went in and out of a few more churches including the ornate Santuario Della Consolata, where there is a collection of bizzare pictures featuring people being saved from disasters.  We preferred the architecture.

Santuario Della Consolata

People being gored by a bull

Turin is certainly a beautiful city with its elegant Baroque architecture and Alp-lined landscape and definitely up there in our top 5 cities to visit!

Over the next few days we will be doing our Christmas shopping and the plan is to end up on a campsite in Lyon.  So we would like to wish you all a VERY HAPPY CHRISTMAS!

Sally x

Feeling Christmassy in Milan via Ferrari and Pavarotti land

After a day of being snowed in at Mondavio, it finally stopped snowing and was beginning to melt a little bit.  A local man had been out to clear the roads near the Sosta, so we could get out onto the main road.

Poor old Sonny does not like this cold weather!

That snow was mighty deep!

We headed to Modena - home of Ferrari, Pavarotti and Modena Balsamic Vinegar.  We had originally thought we would take the scenic road, but with the weather not being good, we decided to pay the toll fee and headed for the autostrada.  It cost €13 for a stretch of over 100 miles - not bad. We have only been in Italy a few days and already we saw an accident involving 3 cars.  They are such erratic and impatient drivers.  We parked up at Area Camper Club Mutina, Modena (N44.61361 E10.94433).  It’s a secure parking area with all the usual facilities plus a heated shower/toilet block, washing-up facilities and a large rest room with vending machines, all for €16 a night.  The owner spoke very little English but was very friendly and gave us a map and some information on the town.

We are not petrol heads but we do like a Ferrari and Mel enjoys a bit of motor racing. However, to visit the Enzo Ferrari museum was going to cost us €32 and a further €25 each if you wanted to sit in a ‘simulated car’ and drive the track.  Talk about ‘rip Off Italy’! So, we gave that a miss and had a mooch around the town the next day.  Not a Ferrari in sight and the only reference to Pavarotti is a theatre named after him. Plenty of balsamic vinegar on offer though, ha-ha.

You have to be so careful where you park your motorhome in Italy, more so in the south, which we discovered last year.  We have spoken to a few people who have had break-ins and have read reports on the internet.  So, we drove to Lidl, did a shop and walked a couple of kms to the centre.  The car park was near a main road with lots of comings and goings, so we figured it would be safe here for a couple of hours.  Walking in to the town was not so safe though, as I nearly got run over.  The Italian’s don’t understand the concept of pedestrian crossings and a car stopped within an inch of my life as I was walking across it and then gave me the look and body language as if it was my fault – crazy Italian drivers!

Modena is on the UNESCO World Heritage list and it looked like they were using the money to do up everywhere, as all the main buildings were covered in scaffolding.  The 12^th century cathedral, with its high tower dominates the main Piazza Grande.

Town Hall

Ice skating rink outside the Ducal Palace - also covered in scaffolding! 

It’s not a big town but it was nice wandering around the cobbled streets, which surprisingly had 4 large Christmas trees in it.  From Modena it was back on the autostrada, where we shared the driving to Milan - a 114 mile journey into the Lombardy region of Italy.  It meant another toll fee of €13 but the weather was really grey with sleet and rain and we wouldn’t have seen much staying off the motorway. We parked up on an Agriturismo, owned by an organic and rice farmer, with spaces for 10 motorhomes (N45.40164 E9.18215).  There were a couple of Italian motorhomes parked up but we never saw anybody come or go.  For €19 a night it was basic to say the least but this was Milan, and so we knew it wasn't going to be cheap. On top of that you have to endure a rooster waking you up at 5am - the joys of stopping on a farm!

A 10 minute walk from the farm and you are at the tram stop.  Italy is an expensive country but their transport system is as ‘cheap as chips’.  It’s a 30 minute journey to the centre and only cost us €6 return ticket for the both of us - well done Italy!  Arriving at the cathedral it was heaving.  We thought it would be fairly busy, as the Christmas markets were on but the queue to get in the cathedral was long and getting longer by the minute.  So, we headed to the ticket office and joined the queue.  There was a lot of military security around the cathedral and everyone was searched electronically before going in, as well as a bag search.  Not sure if this happens all year or if its heightened because of it being Christmas time and the attacks that have taken place in other cities this time of year.  Mel just got the €3 ticket to get into the cathedral; however, I got the €7 one that included the cathedral, museum and archaeological area.  You can pay a further €9 if you want to walk up on the roof (€13 if you take the lift) – they know how to rip the tourists off these Italians!  Work begun on the cathedral in 1386 but not finished until 1938.  The outside appealed to us more than the inside, with its carved white marble statues – a mix of Baroque and Gothic designs.  We got talking to a father and daughter from Moldova, who were in front of us in the queue. It was interesting to hear about a country we really knew nothing about.

It has 52 columns, each representing one week of the year

A large crucifix is suspended and hidden from public view behind a net - no idea why, probably so it is shrouded in mystery!  It’s said to contain a nail from Christ’s cross and is only lowered once a year – 14 September (the Feast of the Cross) by a device invented by Leonardo da Vinci. They were getting ready for a Christmas concert in the cathedral so the central part was cordoned off to the public.

Large crucifix suspended from the ceiling - hidden behind the netting

A gruesome statue of St Bartholomew, with his sculpted veins, muscles and bones and skin thrown over his shoulder like a toga

Below the cathedral are the Archaeological finds of the Santa Tecla Basilica and Baptistery of San Giovanni, dating back to 350, which was destroyed and the cathedral built over the top of it.

The Museum houses a large collection of sculptures, paintings, tapestries, stained glass windows and ugly gargoyle.  You could probably spend about 1½ if it's your thing but for me it was all a bit samey so ½ hour was long enough for me. Did like this tapestry though!

13th century tapestry, of wool, silk and silver

Statue in the centre of the Piazza Duomo attracts hundreds of pigeons - a bit like Nelsons Column.  If you put your arms out they will land on you and do the business!

Santa Maria delle Grazie – famous for housing the painting of The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci in the refectory of the monastery.  You have to buy a ticket in advance, on-line for €9 and then you get an allocated time to visit and then you're only allowed 15 minutes in there.  We had seen the painting in a monastery last year when we were in Italy – okay not the original admittedly but it didn’t justify paying €18 to see it again!

Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio was built in 379 and is the city's oldest church.  It’s unusual for its 2 brick towers of different heights.  It is built on the site of a cemetery and they are currently excavating the area and have unearthed over 140 bodies.  One of which was on view as a couple of archaeologists were doing their thing but I'm not into taking pictures of dead people!

A group of nuns were visiting at the same time as us

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II – a beautiful glass domed shopping gallery. 

Milan is famous for its fashion and design, and this place houses all the top designers.  Needless to say, prices are ridiculous and only those with a fat wallet can afford to shop or eat in here.  That ruled us out then!

These interesting 'fashion statements' would set you back a few euros!

Perfume anyone?

Jazzy old tram goes passed La Scala Opera Theatre – the building is not as ornate as we thought it would be. The inside is supposed to be beautiful and we would love to attend a concert there - maybe one day!

Sforzesco Castle lies on the edge of a large public park (Parco Sempione), the castle has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. Napoleon had a road laid out around it in self-tribute, with an arch at the end that reminded us of a small Brandenburg Gate.  He fancied himself as King of Italy!

Sforzesco Castle

Napoleon’s triumphal arch

After hours of walking around it was time to sit down and enjoy a meal.  You know it’s going to be expensive when they bring you a complimentary glass of Prosecco and a freebie starter.  It was good though!

Fed and watered, it was time to hit that Christmas market!

Ten hours in Milan and we were worn out.  It’s a lovely old city, with some great buildings that reminded us a bit of London.  Fingers crossed, we will return one day.

Sally x