Turin – on the trail of the ‘Italian Job’

Leaving a foggy Milan, we headed to Turin.  Given the weather we took the tolled motorway again - €20 for just over 100miles.  We parked up on a Sosta at Collegno (N45.08099 E7.58184) on the outskirts of Turin (or Torino as it is called in Italy).  We are not city lovers but did enjoy Milan and as fans of the 1969 film ‘The Italian Job’ we had to come to Turin to check out the areas used in the film, plus we had read that it was a beautiful city. From the Sosta it’s 10 minute walk to the metro and a €4 all-day ticket lets you hop on and off anywhere in and around Turin.

For those who haven’t seen the film, it’s basically about petty thief Charlie Croker (aka Michael Caine) who leads a team of cockney crooks through the streets of Turin after stealing $4million of Chinese gold that has been sent to Italy as a deposit for a new car factory.  Part of the gang take 3 mini Coopers filled with the gold that they have just stolen from the city, the others are disguised as football supporters and leave in a mini bus. Their escape is hampered by a traffic jam, that they created to distract the local police and Mafia chasing after them.  As a result, they have to find another way out of the city that involves them driving through some of Turin’s architectural buildings and iconic landmarks.  Our first stop was Lingotto (a scene used by the film) and to the original Fiat factory.  Fiat’s Headquarters are still here but the factory has been relocated.

Apparently, the Fiat car was built slowly on different levels in the factory, eventually making it to the top floor.  The completed car would then emerge onto the rooftop, where it was tested on the purpose built race track.  The track was one of the areas used in the film, where they were chased by the police. The factory is now a massive leisure complex and hotel.  To get to the top floor you enter through a book shop and take a glass sided lift to the top and to what is now a collection of art donated by the head of the Fiat dynasty.  Unfortunately, the only way to access the track is to buy a ticket for the gallery which costs €8.  We had no interest in stumping up €16 to see the paintings, so we asked the lady behind the desk if we could just pop out and take a photo but she was having none of it.  If you want to see the track you have to buy a ticket, she said.  Luckily there is glass to one side and we cheekily took a few photos and then headed back down in the lift.

The curved part of the race track

The Fiat Track - scene from the Italian Job

We then nipped back onto the metro and to the centre of Turin.  It comprises of one 13.2km line that starts from where we were staying, Collegno (south of Turin) and runs through to Lingotto (21 stations). The first part of the line opened in time for the 2006 winter Olympics, it is a driver less line and the platforms are separated from the tracks by screen doors that only open when the train arrives in the station – a good safety system.  Next, we walked up Via Romo, only affording to window shop at all the expensive designer shops.

Two gigantic nudes representing the 2 rivers of Turin - River Po and Dora

We then made our way to Piazza San Carlo a beautiful Piazza, with more expensive shops and Cafés.

There was a demonstration taking place, with people draped in EU flags walking around a Christmas tree. I asked one of the young girls what was happening.  She told me they were trying to get signatures (they need one million) so the government would change the laws on immigration.  She said they were not opposed to immigrants coming in but just wanted a better system – amen to that!

Giant Advent Calendar in the Piazza

Gallerina San Ferico A stunning mix of Baroque grandeur to Art Nouveau. Another scene where the gang drove through chased by a police motorbike and skidded on the wet floor.  Luckily for us the floor was dry!

We walked through the Piazza Castello and to the Palazzo Madama, home to what they say is one of the most beautiful staircases in the world.  And yes, you guessed it, in one of the films scenes the minis drove down it!

Palazzo Madama staircase, as far as you can get unless you buy a ticket

The staircase scene from the film

Behind the Palazzo Madama is a huge monument dedicated to Duke Emanuel Filberto – Italian general and member of the House of Savoy.

There was also a lovely Christmas market to have a mooch around. Turin is famous for its chocolate and these looked too good to eat:

The Cathedral, St John the Baptist is home to The Shroud of Turin, which bears the image of a crucified man.  The Shroud is said to be the cloth Jesus was wrapped in after his crucifixion; although carbon-dated tests and later forensic tests carried out prove otherwise, and call it ‘the most remarkable forgery in history’. These claims are being disputed, testing goes on and will continue to be a hotly debated question. The church only displays the cloth every 25 years, so you have to make do with a copy of it and the glass box that it sits in. True or false, your call!

Above the entrance doors is a reproduction (oil painting) of Leonardo da Vinci’s famed Last Supper.

Mole Antonelliana - major landmark in Turin (167m high).  Built as a synagogue and now home of the National Museum of Cinema.  Nice building from a distance but ugly close up!

Although a museum of cinema, it apparently makes no reference to The Italian Job film.  It is thought the reason being is that the Brits trick, foil and triumph over the Italians.  Plus, the portrayal of Italians in the movie isn’t flattering – ridiculing the police, Mafia mobsters and local people in general.

River Po and the weir that the minis drove over

The 'weir scene' from The Italian Job. The minis crossed the wear on the final stage of their getaway – no idea how they did it!

Chiesa di Gran Madre Di Dio – another scene where the minis drive down and interrupt a wedding

The drive down the steps, interrupting a wedding as they outwit the police with their stolen gold bullion. Ironically there are no roads that lead to the top so goodness knows how they did that scene.

The inside of the church is small but ornate with a beautiful domed roof

You get a great view from the top of the church steps, across the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge straddling the River Po and views of the snow-caped Alps.  It was built in 1807 under the order of Napoleon who ruled the region for nearly 15 years.  When Vittorio Emanuel defeated Napoleon and liberated Turin he removed every trace of Napoleonic influence apart from the bridge.  As a way of ridiculing the French, he encouraged people to trample across it and never forget their triumph over French occupation.  The bridge was then renamed in Vittorio’s honour.

Church and Convent of Saint Maria on the 284 m high Monte desi Cappuccini (from the bridge)

Piazza Satuto - the fountain of the Frejus Tunnel. A pyramid created in 1879 made up of stones from the Frejus Tunnel.  We will be heading through the tunnel to get into France to avoid going over the Alps.

After our expensive meal in Milan, lunch was a modest meal of Arancini - rice balls stuffed with ragu, Mozzarella, ham and peas, coated in bread crumbs and fried and they are really quite tasty.  We went in and out of a few more churches including the ornate Santuario Della Consolata, where there is a collection of bizzare pictures featuring people being saved from disasters.  We preferred the architecture.

Santuario Della Consolata

People being gored by a bull

Turin is certainly a beautiful city with its elegant Baroque architecture and Alp-lined landscape and definitely up there in our top 5 cities to visit!

Over the next few days we will be doing our Christmas shopping and the plan is to end up on a campsite in Lyon.  So we would like to wish you all a VERY HAPPY CHRISTMAS!

Sally x