Istanbul – a city on two continents

It has been quite a few months since my last blog and a lot has happened since then.  However, more of that later!  We are currently hauled up in Bulgaria, at our apartment in Sunny Beach on the Black Sea and have just come back from a fantastic two day trip to Istanbul.  We had thought about driving to Turkey in our motorhome (Sonny) but had heard the roads into Istanbul are very busy so we opted for a coach trip.
The coach picked us up at 4.45am and was full of mostly Russians, Ukraine's, 10 Germans, 4 Brits, 2 Irish ladies, and one Lithuanian.  Setting off at 4.45am in the morning, it's a 370km journey but the roads are slow and it took us nearly 8 hours (including a 1/2 hour rest stop) to get to our hotel in the centre of Istanbul.  An hour of that was spent at the border with passport checks, plus as Turkey is not in the EU Brits have to purchase a visa, which costs about £15 per person.  To save time we purchased online beforehand, otherwise you can do it at the border.  About 20kms outside of Istanbul traffic becomes a standstill and you crawl all the way into the city, which took a further 1 ½ hours - nightmare! 

Our hotel, Buyuk Sahinler, is rated as a 4 star, but it is more like a 3 star in UK terms.  That said, the rooms were clean, staff friendly and the buffet breakfast served from 7am to 10am is vast with everything from fruit, cereals, yoghurt, pastries, ham, cheese, eggs, umpteen salads, bread and even soup!

Buffet breakfast at the hotel

Arriving at the hotel, it was a quick basic lunch of salad, chicken and veg and fruit and then we were off on an afternoon sightseeing trip. Istanbul straddles Europe and Asia across the Bosphorus Strait and is the largest European city, with a population of about 20 million.  Istanbul is famous for its Ottoman architecture and mosques, with over 3,500 of them and there are plans to build more.  The most famous of them all is the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet), built in 1616 with its beautiful blue tiles covering the interior walls.  It is distinguished from the other mosques with its 6 minarets, others have only 2 or 4. To enter, women have to have their legs, arms and head covered.  Men only have to wear a T-shirt and shorts to their knees.  They provide scarves and hideously large and very long skirts, if you are not dressed appropriately.  Luckily, I was dressed in long trousers and brought my own scarf and Mel's shorts were the right length - not sure how he would have looked in the long skirt haha! You also have to remove your shoes at the entrance to the mosque and are given a plastic bag to place them in.  Given the amount of visitors they have daily, you can just imagine the amount of plastic wastage!

Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet)

Inside the Blue Mosque

Aya Sophia - former Greek Orthodox Christian Cathedral.  Build in 6th century, now a museum.

Sultanahmet Square - a public square with remnants of an ancient Hippodrome, for centuries the site of chariot races and Egyptian Obelisk

German Fountain in Sultanahmet Square - presented to the Ottoman Sultan by German Emperor Wilhelm II in 1898, marking Turkish-German friendship

Rüstem Paşa Mosque and Süleymaniye Mosque rise above the Istanbul skyline

St Stephen Church, is made of cast iron one of the few remaining in the world and inside is very ornate. It is a Bulgarian Orthodox church and belongs to the Bulgarian minority who live in Istanbul.  During the 19th century, the Bulgarians were allowed by the Ottomans to construct a separate church for themselves, due to nationalistic movements.

St Stephen Church

The home ground of Beşiktaş FC, in the centre of the city

In the evening we had a night trip on the Bosphorus with a meal, drinks and traditional dancing - including the religious dance of the Whirling Dervish, belly dancing and folk music - great fun!

Night view of the Bosphorus Bridge, connecting Europe and Asia

Boat Trip

The next morning it was off to the 15th century Grand Bazaar, the largest and oldest covered markets in the world.  It is a gigantic labyrinth with over 4000 authentic shops selling spices, jewellery, leather, pottery, carpets and of course Turkish Delight!  The smells, colours and vibrancy of the Bazaar are incredible; however you do get hassled a lot from the traders to buy their goods.  Remember the price they start out, will come down and down if you are prepared to barter, as we did! There are 11 numbered gates into the bazaar, all security controlled and one tip would be to remember the number of the gate you enter otherwise you can spend hours trying to find your way out and back to your hotel.  A Lithuanian guy who was on the trip with us took 2 hours trying to find his way out and back to the hotel!

Posing at the entrance gate to the Bazaar

A little courtyard inside the Bazaar

Time for mint tea, Turkish coffee and cake - yummy!

To get around the city in a van for deliveries is near on impossible, with traffic at a standstill most times of the day - cars, motorbikes, buses, coaches, tuk-tuks, push bike - every form of transport you can think of. So most things are carried in on sack barrows.  They pile them high and they must be really heavy but I guess they are used to it and take it all in their stride!  There is a good tram system that runs around the city and is really cheap, you can get on and off anywhere along the line for about 6 TRY (just under 1 euro).

Delivery man in Istanbul with his heavy sack barrow.

The afternoon was finished off with a daytime boat trip on the Bosphorus, going up the eastern side and then back down the Asian side.  After enduring near on 35°C temperatures around the Bazaar it was nice to cool down on the boat. There are a fantastic mix of mosques, palaces and some fantastic houses, built for the rich on the Asian side.  Our guide told us that they are not allowed to build anymore houses on the Asian side of the Bosphorus due to there being so many.

The Golden Horn Bridge

Ortaköy Mosque on the bank of the Bosphorus, beneath the Bosphorus Bridge

Old city walls from the days of when Istanbul was known as Constantinople

The coach set back off to Bulgaria at 7pm, arriving back in Sunny Beach at 2am.  We were exhausted but the 2-day visit to the city was amazing and would recommend that you all try and visit Istanbul at least once in your lifetime.  We hope to go back again one day but not by coach!

As mentioned at the beginning of the blog, a quick summary of our last 4 months.

We got back from year 2 of our travels on 3 January 2019.  Our house was still being rented out, so we stopped with our daughter and fiancé for a couple of weeks. Caught up with family and friends and then flew out to Spain (Punta Umbria) and stopped with our son for 3 ½ weeks.  We got back mid-February, our tenants moved out, we got our belongings out of storage and we put our house on the market, with a plan to buy a smaller house. We sold our house within a week, then it became a waiting game for it all to go through – 14 weeks later it was sold and we were homeless, as we couldn’t find a house we liked.  So, all our belongings went back in storage and we headed to our apartment in Bulgaria.

We travelled through 9 countries (UK, France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria) in 6 days - a distance of 2093.8 miles (3350kms).  Our daughter and her fiancé joined us 5 days later in Bulgaria, for a week in the sun.  We plan to stop in Bulgaria for a few months, maybe driving into Greece for a short while before travelling back north through Europe.

Sally x

The beautiful nature reserve of Kerkini Lake

Leaving Rozhen Monastery, we wound our way back down and around the Melnik Pyramids.

Melnik Pyramids

From here we took the road south and across the border into Northern Greece. We filled up with fuel and LPG just before crossing into Greece, as it is cheaper in Bulgaria.

As we approached the border we counted 115 lorries waiting to be checked to cross from Bulgaria to Greece, fortunately for us we sailed passed them all and within 2 minutes we had gone through the Bulgaria and Greece passport checks.  We had planned to avoid toll roads in Greece, as they are very expensive.  However, crossing at this part of the border you have to go straight onto a ‘toll road’ and it cost us €6 to travel a short journey of about 10kms before turning off towards Kerkini Lake, Northern Greece.

The roads in Greece haven’t improved since we were here last year and you have to swerve to miss quite a few potholes on non-motorway roads.  We parked up at the same spot as last year overlooking Lake Kerkini (N41.21173 E23.09569).  A nice short journey of 49 miles (78.4 kms). There are 2 fresh water taps and toilets, which we used to dispose of Sonny's (the motorhome) toilet waste, which is okay as long as you don't put chemicals down them.  As we now have our new Sog, it means we no longer have to put smelly chemicals in our toilet so we can use public toilets to dispose!

Our home for a couple of nights, on the edge of the lake

It wasn’t long before we were joined by Vera and her dog Woody, who we had last seen at Alexandrovo Campsite and her friend Leslie who had flown out from the UK to Sofia to travel around with her for a week.  We had told her what a beautiful place it was and she wasn’t disappointed – thank goodness!  It wasn’t long before we met up with Vasilis, a lovely and very knowledgeable man who takes you out onto the lake in his boat.  He told us that he was taking a couple from Israel out at 7am tomorrow morning and if we like us 4 could join them.  So, it was an early night for us as we would be up for 6.15am – we normally don’t see daylight much before 8.30am!  We knew it would be worth the sacrifice as we enjoyed it so much last year.  Just as the sun was rising, we set out on a boat trip with Vasilis. 

The lake is so peaceful despite all the wildlife on it and there is something quite majestic about it all.  Vasilis is so knowledgeable and passionate about the lake and its wildlife, as he has been doing it for over 20 years.  He has photographers returning year after year from all over the world, including film crews.

The Lake is one of the most important wetlands in Europe and is considered to be one of the top European bird watching destinations – about 300 species (Dalmatian Pelicans, Flamingos, squacco and grey heron, flamingos, terns, egrets, grebes, geese, ibis, avocets, cormorants, pelicans, bee-eaters, and many many more.) have been observed. As well as birds and fish, there are snails, snakes, salamanders, lizards and turtles along with the wild buffalo who graze at certain points around the lake.

The lake is approximately 15 kms long, and approx. 8.5 kms wide when full of water.

It is an artificial lake created in 1932 and redeveloped in 1980.  Huge expanses of water lilies stretch across the anvil-shape lake, from which the River Strymónas flows out of and into the Aegean Sea.

Dalmatian Pelican

Grey Heron

Flamingos

We were on the boat for nearly 2 ½ hours – €11 each – great value for money.  Following the boat trip I played barber to Mel and gave him a haircut on the shore of the lake and Mel gave my fringe a trim.  Who needs hairdressers, plus none we know of have the view that we had across the lake!  Shortly afterwards a couple of fishermen brought a large Carp to our motorhome door, Vasilis had asked them to catch on for us.  It was enormous and only cost us €5.  Mel meticulously gutted it and we had on the barbeque that night.  It is one of the tastiest fish we have eaten in a long time.

Mel with his fish!

The Carp cooking nicely on the bbq!

A short walk (1km) from where we were parked up takes you to the village and to a lovely taverna to enjoy a drink and food.  A Greek couple were in there eating and having a drink and turned to us to say hello and raised their glasses and said ‘yamas’ (cheers).  Then a few minutes later the waitress brings over a couple of drinks to our table and said that the Greek couple has bought them for us.  Such a kind gesture and we hadn’t even spoken to them.  So, we raised glasses, another ‘Yamos’ and got talking to them, they were from Thessaloniki and just visiting the area.  We chatted about various things, and they explained to us how bad things were economically in Greece, and how bad the job situation is. They used to have their own business as driving instructors but their business went bust as no one could afford lessons.  We explained things weren't much better in the UK.  Many drinks later we staggered back to the motorhome!

A short trip out on the scooter took us up into the hills to the monastery of Timios Prodromos in Akritochori, it’s a working monastery and home to 45 nuns.  Last year we visited the monastery and had tea and cakes with them.  This year we just enjoyed the great view of the lake from the top and the lovely autumn colours.

Looking across the lake from above the monastery

We then went down to Mandraki Lake to watch some more Dalmatian Pelicans and Flamingos, and came across these 2 lovely ladies picking walnuts - back-breaking work!.  They were happy for me to take a photograph and insisted on giving us a bag load for free.  We love the generosity of the Greeks.

Such a lot of walnuts to sort out

Before leaving Kerkini, Vasilis offered us the use of his washing machine, which was great as our laundry bag was getting full.  He wouldn't take any money and so we offered him beers, and he was reluctant to take those - he is such a kind man.  It was a wrench leaving Lake Kerkini but we felt after 3 free nights there it was time to move on and explore more of Greece. 

Lake Kerkini Boats

Buffalo grazing around Kerkini Lake

So we took the road right around the lake and then a free motorway to Thessaloniki (N40.502602 E22970501).  We took the road along the pier to see the white tower and we had planned to park up and have a walk around, but it was so busy and no parking spots for motorhomes.  So we continued 10kms out of the city and parked up at Zampetas Motorhome shop and service place.  We used this as an overnight spot last year on our way south from Greece, heading north towards Kerkini Lake.  It is a bit noisy with aircraft and road noise but everything is free – electric, shower, toilet, Wi-Fi so you can’t grumble.  There is even a washing machine, which was free last year but now costs €5.  There is a small seating area and washing lines, so I decided to get the bedding and towels washed.  It was all dry in less than an hour of pegging it out!  From here we move on around the three fingers of Greece - Halkidiki.

Sally x

Enjoying Mountain-Life in the Pirin

Leaving Alexandrovo Campsite, we headed further west towards the Pirin Mountains.  After a short stretch of motorway we turned off on the pretty mountain road towards Bansko.

Winding mountain roads, on the way to Bansko

The road we took follows the Rhodope Narrow Gauge Railway line all the way to Bankso - 4 trains run a day and we were lucky enough to spot one of them!

Lots of honey sellers along the road

Bansko is Bulgaria's number one ski resort, at a height 925metres.   We stopped off here last year on the way up the mountains, and the new town is full of shops, all selling ski related goods and a lot of unfinished apartments/hotels.  The old town is lovely though with its mix of stone and wooden houses.  From Bansko we wiggled 9kms up the steep mountain road to Camping Banderitsa (N41.76619 E23.42575).  It sits on a large meadow on the left bank of the Bunderitsa River - at a height of 1800 metres.  As we climbed higher the temperature dropped from 24°C to 8°C in the space of 20 minutes.  When we stopped here last year in August there were a few tents and motorhomes, but this time there was only us and one tent on the Thursday and Friday night.  Given how cold the temperature drops at night we were surprised to see any tents at all.  There aren't any facilities here other than a small restaurant, with inside and outside eating, but it's free to stay even though they call it a campsite! The food is basic, but tasty and very cheap - 2 large bottled beers, 2 big pork steaks, cheesy chips and garlic bread for only 17LV (€8.50).  We sat inside as the temperature drops dramatically here at night (Down to 1°C both nights we were here) and we enjoyed a lovely warm up beside a big log fire.

Campsite on the left, with beautiful views of the Pirin Mountains and the Banderitsa Taverna on the right

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast and lots of coffee we set off to walk the highest mountain in the Pirin -Vihren Mountain that sits at 2914 metres.  We had found a walk on Wikiloc that was 10.6kms, so we thought we would go for it.  We hadn't done any hill/mountain walking since March of this year, when we spent a lot of time walking around Andalusia but we were feeling fit and thought surely it can't be that hard.  Boy were we wrong, it was VERY hard!!

That's where we  are heading, straight in front and up all the way- Mel just checking the route on his phone!

More than 70 glacial lakes exist in the Pirin.  Someone had spelled out 'Pirin; in stones in the cyrillic alphabet around this lake, that could be seen from quite a height.

One last push to the top.  The only trouble was it was very steep and at this altitude the air was thinning, so we had to stop every 50-100 steps

We made it! At the top of Vihren, 2914 metres

Bansko in the distance from the top of Vihren Mountain

Coming down, Ice was visible on the north side of Vihren.  It was so steep and icy in places, that there were iron chains to hang on to all the way down.  Obviously, with my fear of heights/sheer drops I had a few moments where I froze - literally!

Ice on the north-side of  Vihren

Don't look down!

We found a few of these roaming about the mountains,  which we think are a type of roe deer.

More than half of Pirin National Park is covered with forests.  One famous tree is the Baikushevata Macedonian Pine, approximately 1,350 years old.

Baikushevata Mura (Baikushev's Pine)

Getting back down, we were exhausted but we felt good for getting to the top of Pirin's highest mountain and back down again in one piece.  Plus we were so lucky with the weather for this time of year, it was about 23°C during the day so that was a bonus.  However, by 8pm it had dropped rapidly to 8°C and the gas heating was blasting out to keep us warm.
Getting up the next morning we could hardly move.  We ached in places we didn't know we could!  We left Piren early morning and headed towards Melnik, after a quick supermarket stop at Kaufland in Sandanski.  We visited here last year and it is a lovely village - the smallest town in Bulgaria, and is  surrounded by sandstone pyramids, known as hoodoos and reach a height of up to 100 metres.  They are formed over centuries by wind, rain and erosion of the limestone cliffs, and therefore over time are constantly changing.  Melnik is also famous for producing strong wines since 1346.  Winston Churchill loved these wines, in particular a certain broadleaf red grape variety called Shiroka Melnishka, which is only grown in this area.  We bought some of these wines last year and they were lovely, so we couldn't resist buying some more this year.

Monument of Yane Sandanski, a famous Bulgaria revolutionary and national hero in Bulgaria and Macedonia

Wild Camping among the Melnik Pyramids - you get such a good view of them from this point.

From Melnik we drove 6kms to Rozhen, to a wild camping spot, below the monastery (N41.53200 E023.42960).  Yane Sandanski is one of the most famous and most loved Bulgarian revolutionaries, and in the Republic of Macedonia where he fought for their liberation.  He was killed in April, 1915 and is buried just below where we were wild camping.  There is an old run-down church near his grave, with the inscription on his tombstone: "To live means to fight. Slave - for freedom and free - for perfection"

Old church and grave of Yane Sandanski, below Rozhen Monastery

Rozhen Monastery is the oldest Orthodox Monastery in the Pirin Mountains.  We visited it last year, so didn't bother again this time. Although it is not on the same scale as Rila Monastery, it is well worth a visit.  You can see pictures from my Blog last year - The Pirin Mountains  [Link]

After having a couple of very cold nights in the Pirin, it was lovely to be able to sit out last night until the sun went down, enjoying a barbeque.  We move on later today - destination Kerkini Lake, Greece, another beautiful place we visited last year!

Sally x