The beautiful nature reserve of Kerkini Lake

Leaving Rozhen Monastery, we wound our way back down and around the Melnik Pyramids.

Melnik Pyramids

From here we took the road south and across the border into Northern Greece. We filled up with fuel and LPG just before crossing into Greece, as it is cheaper in Bulgaria.

As we approached the border we counted 115 lorries waiting to be checked to cross from Bulgaria to Greece, fortunately for us we sailed passed them all and within 2 minutes we had gone through the Bulgaria and Greece passport checks.  We had planned to avoid toll roads in Greece, as they are very expensive.  However, crossing at this part of the border you have to go straight onto a ‘toll road’ and it cost us €6 to travel a short journey of about 10kms before turning off towards Kerkini Lake, Northern Greece.

The roads in Greece haven’t improved since we were here last year and you have to swerve to miss quite a few potholes on non-motorway roads.  We parked up at the same spot as last year overlooking Lake Kerkini (N41.21173 E23.09569).  A nice short journey of 49 miles (78.4 kms). There are 2 fresh water taps and toilets, which we used to dispose of Sonny's (the motorhome) toilet waste, which is okay as long as you don't put chemicals down them.  As we now have our new Sog, it means we no longer have to put smelly chemicals in our toilet so we can use public toilets to dispose!

Our home for a couple of nights, on the edge of the lake

It wasn’t long before we were joined by Vera and her dog Woody, who we had last seen at Alexandrovo Campsite and her friend Leslie who had flown out from the UK to Sofia to travel around with her for a week.  We had told her what a beautiful place it was and she wasn’t disappointed – thank goodness!  It wasn’t long before we met up with Vasilis, a lovely and very knowledgeable man who takes you out onto the lake in his boat.  He told us that he was taking a couple from Israel out at 7am tomorrow morning and if we like us 4 could join them.  So, it was an early night for us as we would be up for 6.15am – we normally don’t see daylight much before 8.30am!  We knew it would be worth the sacrifice as we enjoyed it so much last year.  Just as the sun was rising, we set out on a boat trip with Vasilis. 

The lake is so peaceful despite all the wildlife on it and there is something quite majestic about it all.  Vasilis is so knowledgeable and passionate about the lake and its wildlife, as he has been doing it for over 20 years.  He has photographers returning year after year from all over the world, including film crews.

The Lake is one of the most important wetlands in Europe and is considered to be one of the top European bird watching destinations – about 300 species (Dalmatian Pelicans, Flamingos, squacco and grey heron, flamingos, terns, egrets, grebes, geese, ibis, avocets, cormorants, pelicans, bee-eaters, and many many more.) have been observed. As well as birds and fish, there are snails, snakes, salamanders, lizards and turtles along with the wild buffalo who graze at certain points around the lake.

The lake is approximately 15 kms long, and approx. 8.5 kms wide when full of water.

It is an artificial lake created in 1932 and redeveloped in 1980.  Huge expanses of water lilies stretch across the anvil-shape lake, from which the River Strymónas flows out of and into the Aegean Sea.

Dalmatian Pelican

Grey Heron

Flamingos

We were on the boat for nearly 2 ½ hours – €11 each – great value for money.  Following the boat trip I played barber to Mel and gave him a haircut on the shore of the lake and Mel gave my fringe a trim.  Who needs hairdressers, plus none we know of have the view that we had across the lake!  Shortly afterwards a couple of fishermen brought a large Carp to our motorhome door, Vasilis had asked them to catch on for us.  It was enormous and only cost us €5.  Mel meticulously gutted it and we had on the barbeque that night.  It is one of the tastiest fish we have eaten in a long time.

Mel with his fish!

The Carp cooking nicely on the bbq!

A short walk (1km) from where we were parked up takes you to the village and to a lovely taverna to enjoy a drink and food.  A Greek couple were in there eating and having a drink and turned to us to say hello and raised their glasses and said ‘yamas’ (cheers).  Then a few minutes later the waitress brings over a couple of drinks to our table and said that the Greek couple has bought them for us.  Such a kind gesture and we hadn’t even spoken to them.  So, we raised glasses, another ‘Yamos’ and got talking to them, they were from Thessaloniki and just visiting the area.  We chatted about various things, and they explained to us how bad things were economically in Greece, and how bad the job situation is. They used to have their own business as driving instructors but their business went bust as no one could afford lessons.  We explained things weren't much better in the UK.  Many drinks later we staggered back to the motorhome!

A short trip out on the scooter took us up into the hills to the monastery of Timios Prodromos in Akritochori, it’s a working monastery and home to 45 nuns.  Last year we visited the monastery and had tea and cakes with them.  This year we just enjoyed the great view of the lake from the top and the lovely autumn colours.

Looking across the lake from above the monastery

We then went down to Mandraki Lake to watch some more Dalmatian Pelicans and Flamingos, and came across these 2 lovely ladies picking walnuts - back-breaking work!.  They were happy for me to take a photograph and insisted on giving us a bag load for free.  We love the generosity of the Greeks.

Such a lot of walnuts to sort out

Before leaving Kerkini, Vasilis offered us the use of his washing machine, which was great as our laundry bag was getting full.  He wouldn't take any money and so we offered him beers, and he was reluctant to take those - he is such a kind man.  It was a wrench leaving Lake Kerkini but we felt after 3 free nights there it was time to move on and explore more of Greece. 

Lake Kerkini Boats

Buffalo grazing around Kerkini Lake

So we took the road right around the lake and then a free motorway to Thessaloniki (N40.502602 E22970501).  We took the road along the pier to see the white tower and we had planned to park up and have a walk around, but it was so busy and no parking spots for motorhomes.  So we continued 10kms out of the city and parked up at Zampetas Motorhome shop and service place.  We used this as an overnight spot last year on our way south from Greece, heading north towards Kerkini Lake.  It is a bit noisy with aircraft and road noise but everything is free – electric, shower, toilet, Wi-Fi so you can’t grumble.  There is even a washing machine, which was free last year but now costs €5.  There is a small seating area and washing lines, so I decided to get the bedding and towels washed.  It was all dry in less than an hour of pegging it out!  From here we move on around the three fingers of Greece - Halkidiki.

Sally x