The Pirin Mountains – home to the smallest town, biggest monastery and oldest tree!

We are currently wild camping in the heart of the Pirin Mountains (N41.76619 E23.42575).  Nearby is a fresh water tap, a little café (Banderitsa) and toilet for the walkers - so everything we need!

We left Greece a couple of days ago, passing our last shrine (Kandilakia).  We have passed so many of these along the roads in Greece, we are sick of the sight of them!  Some are made of stone/concrete others metal and are in the shape of a little church.  They have small glass doors, where you can see inside - most have Orthodox Christian items and sometimes a candle burning.  We have since learnt that they don’t necessarily commemorate a death but are placed in areas as public prayer or even bought for a family’s private prayer use.  It seems you never drive more than ½ km – 1km before seeing one!

We loved our time in Greece and saw a lot in the 17 days we were there - our route in red.

Our route around Greece in red

We were excited to be going into Bulgaria, we were last here 6 years ago and were keen to see what changes had been made since coming into the EU.

At the border, we sailed through passport control, they just asked us where we were heading and our route around Bulgaria.  They seemed to be pulling over a lot of the other nationalities coming through for further checks, noticeably Ukrainians and Russians.  Once across the border we bought a Vignette from the petrol station (30LV/15 Euros). It’s law that you purchase and display in your window - like a tax disc.

Then it was through the little country roads to Melnik, with its backdrop of bizarre sandstone pyramids, formed over centuries as a result of wind rain and constant erosion of the limestone cliffs.  It is the smallest town in Bulgaria, with only 217 inhabitants.

Melnik

It is also famous for producing strong wines since 1346 and was Winston Churchill's favourite wine - obviously, we bought some!

It was like being back in a UK supermarket ‘get 3 for 2’!

An unusual place to park your Trabant!

From here we drove a further 6 kms to Rozhen Monastery, the biggest and well- preserved monastery in the Pirin Mountains. There is some confusion over how old it is, as records were destroyed in a fire but items found and frescoes on the walls date back to early 13^th century.

Some lovely grapes growing in the monastery grounds

We wild camped just below the monastery overlooking the sandstone pyramids of Melnik (N41.53210 E023.42976).

Time for the Bulgarian sticker to go on!

From Rozhen, we drove to Bansko, Bulgaria’s number one ski resort, with an old and new town.

Bansko Old Town

We sat in the new town and enjoyed a cold beer, whilst listening to jazz groups warming up for an international jazz festival in the town over the weekend.

Enjoying a cheap beer in Bulgaria - 2LV (1 Euro) for 500cl!

Today we have enjoyed hiking in the Pirin Mountains and National Park.  In 1983 it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.  Just above where we are parked you can get on the walking routes.

The walk takes you to Baikusheva Mura – the oldest tree in Bulgaraia, 1300 years old and 26 metres high.

Baikusheva Mura

Then into the mountains and around the lakes.

Mountain cows, all wearing bells!

It was a long and hard walk down to the lake!

Enjoying a well earned lie-down at our last lake

Five hours later we were back at the motorhome, not sure how far we had walked but had climbed to about 2,500 metres and the scenery was stunning.  It was perfect walking conditions today, not too hot about 26°C and a slight breeze.  Last night temperatures dropped to about 15°C so we enjoyed a cool nights sleep - fingers crossed it will do the same tonight! 

We plan to move on tomorrow to Rila Monastery and the Seven Lakes.

Sally x