The picturesque village and stone circles of Monsaraz

Moving on about 10kms around the reservoir from Estrela, we stopped off at the village of Luz where there is a museum with old agricultural tools and an hour-long documentary (with English subtitles) on how the village was submerged on 8 February 2002, when the Alqueva reservoir was formed. 

At the museum the lady asked us if we were retired, we looked a bit puzzled at the question and then she said if you are you can get in for half price.  With no hesitation Mel said yes, which although was true I was thinking what sort of proof do we have to back this up, plus I was thinking that anyone can retire at any age if they can financially afford it can't they?  Unlike having to wait until you are an old aged pensioner!  The full price was only €2 each, so it wasn’t like we had a massive saving but Mel was just delighted to get in for half price!

The old village was completely destroyed before the water rose, and all that’s left as a reminder of the village is an islet of pine trees. 

Picture on the left of the old village of Luz and on the right all that's left in the distance are the pine trees

The population (363) were rehoused in a brand-new village of 212 homes.  Similar layout, with nearly all keeping their same neighbours.  They looked like cheaply built houses though, and lacked the character of the original village of Luz.

The documentary was quite sad, as you listened to the older people of the village talk about how they had lived in their houses all their life and didn’t want to leave.  However, the younger generation were excited about getting a new house, new schools, village hall, etc.  The Government were just spouting on about the benefits of increased water supply in the neighbouring areas and an increase of jobs in tourism and agriculture, and showed little sympathy towards the villagers.

There is an Aire in Luz (N38.34282 W7.37406), so we topped up with water, got rid of our waste and Mel even gave Sonny (the motorhome) a good hose-down!  The town didn’t hold much appeal for us, so we went a further 15kms around the reservoir to the pretty town of Monsaraz and parked up at the Aire, just below the castle and walls of the town (N38.44216 W7.37927).  It was another freebie for us, although no facilities.  These were provided about 1km away at the other end of the village.

Sonny, getting a bit of shade from one of the few trees on the Aire.

A short walk from the Aire takes you into the village, which is entirely contained within its walls and pedestrianised, apart from local access.  Although we did see one driver try and take his car through the entrance gate and down the steps below, he definitely wasn't a local and was probably guided there by his SatNav!

The main entrance to the village

There are only 2 main streets running parallel to each other, with the old church in the centre and a few steep alleyways running off, giving stunning views across the landscape.

View of the Aire from the castle

The bullring within the castle

The next day we took a walk around the fields dotted with cork and olive trees, vineyards and a carpet of flowers.

A carpet of spring flowers in one of the fields

A pretty butterfly, who kindly posed whilst I photographed it!

Four thousand years ago this region was an important centre of megalithic culture, covered with temples, tall standing stones (menhirs) and stone circles, which are still standing today.  The first one we came to was Cromeleque do Xerez – a circle of 49 granite stones with a towering 4-metre high central menhir.  Unfortunately, these had to be moved from their original site to here, when the Alqueva dam was flooded.

Cromeleque do Xerez, Convent de Orada in the background

A few kms further is another one, called Menhir da Belhôa – a 5-metre high menhir, with a few smaller ones around the outside.

We stumbled across an old wash house in one of the villages, which looked in good condition.

Mel found an old well which had water in it and couldn’t resist checking to see if the pump worked!

And then onto the last one of the circuit - Menir de Outeiro.  Just one tall towering stone, which was a bit lopsided!

After 12km of walking, Monsaraz comes into view from the otherside.

View across the valley of where we have just walked, as we climb back up to Monsaraz

And then it was time to relax back at the Aire.

In the evening we treated ourselves to a lovely meal, overlooking the reservoir.

Sometimes you stumble across a place that is so beautiful and peaceful, you don’t want to move on.  For us, Monsaraz is one of those places!

Sally x