Driving the Transfagarsan Pass – Top Gear’s ‘Best Driving Road in the World’!

A visit to Romania wouldn't be complete without a trip on the Transfagarasan Pass, made famous by the Top Gear crew when they named it 'The best driving road in the world'.  That was where we would be heading once across the Bulgaria/Romania border.
Our last night in Bulgaria was lovely and peaceful, spent at Rusenski Lom Nature Park it was just us and the wildlife! We set off early the next morning at 8am, as we had a journey of 180 miles (257kms) ahead of us and we had to get across the Bulgaria/Romania border.  We remembered last time (7 years ago) it took nearly an hour so we wanted to get there early! Just before the border we spent the last of our Levs on topping up our LPG, we were already topped to the brim with diesel having filled up the day before.

We arrived at the Bulgarian side of the border just after 8.30am and it took us until 9.15am to cross the bridge over the Danube and go through passport control into Romania – things hadn’t improved from last time!

Crossing the Danube Bridge into Romania

Once across into Romania we got a Vignette to allow us to drive on the roads.  You can get one for 7 days or a month, we just got one for 7 days for €5 and we were on our way.  After 4kms we passed a Kaufland, so we got some Romanian currency from the cash point - 1,000 RON (Lei) – the rate is £1 = 4.523 RON.  That’s going to be taxing on the brain trying to convert the cost of things!

We also bought a map and stocked up with food, as it was a big store and lots of choice.  We topped up with about 6 days food and drink for just 146 RON (£32.30) – cheaper than Bulgaria!

We headed on the road towards Bucharest and chose to take the ring road around it, having already visited it once last time we were in Romania. It is such a big city to drive through and navigate in a car let alone a motorhome.  That said, the traffic was so busy around the ring road it took us nearly ¾ hour to do 10kms.  The roads haven’t improved over the last 7 years – still lots of pot holes and ruts.  Nor had the driving improved, this passenger in the car in front decided to chill and dangle his legs out of the car that was travelling at a speed of about 90kms.

We had heard of a place to stop (wild camp) near to Poenari Castle but it was closed off, so we headed up the Transfagarasan and parked up for the night next to the Vidraru Lake and Dam (831 metres). It is a man-made reservoir and the dam is 165 metres high, 305 metres long and holds 465 milion cubic metres of water.  It is massive!

Vidraru Dam

Vidraru Lake and looking towards the mountains that we crossed the following day

It's a long way down to the bottom of the dam!

So, one day into Romania - it was time for the Romania Sticker to go on our motorhome map!

The next morning we travelled the short distance back down to the village and visited Poenari Castle – the property of Vlad III the Impaler. He earned his nickname by torturing and impaling people who stole, lied or had adulterous relations.  Bram stoker’s Dracula was based on his personality.

The fortress is high up on the top of a high and remote cliff and you have to climb 1,480 steps to the top!

It was a long climb to the top and not a defibrillator in sight! But it was worth it for the views.

Top of Poenari Castle, with the Transfagarsan Pass and mountains in the background

Poenari Castle

The amazing Transfagarasan highway passes over the Fagaras mountains in Transylvania and is often referred to as the Transylvania highway.  Rising to a height of 2134 metres, it has endless hairpin bends with large sections of non-barriered road and sheer drops - a challenge for Sonny (the motorhome) and Mel (the driver) and me as I am not good with heights! The road is closed for most of the year due to the weather and generally is only open June to end of September.

At the top of the road there is a tunnel under the Paltinu Ridge with 2 car parks either side.  Being a Saturday, it was chockablock and not a parking space to be had so we continued a little further and luckily found a pull off just below the cable car.  We saw no evidence of it working though.

At the top there are the usual ‘tat’ souvenir shops but also some lovely food stalls, selling meats, cheeses and homemade preserves.

At the highest point is Balea Lake, a glacier lake with clear, icy water. 

Balea Lake

The first European ice hotel was built here in 2006 and since then it is constructed every year in December with ice from the frozen lake.  As the road is closed during winter it can only be reached by cable car and usually remains open until it melts in April.  Think we will give that one a miss!

Looking down at the sharp descent and the hairpin turns of the pass.

The scalextric looking Transfagarsan Pass from the highest point

Mel enjoying a cold pint, soaking up the views from our 'wild camping' spot and watching the sheep cross the highway with the shepherd.

It wasn't long before he was surrounded by the local sheep!

Last night an almighty storm hit the mountain at about 2am and continued until 5am - strong winds, thunder and lightning, and rain. Mel turned the motorhome to face into the wind to try and stop it swaying from side to side and we had no chose but to ride out the storm as it was too dangerous to move off the mountain and try and manoeuvre the road in the dark. There were a couple of Spanish guys on motorbikes who had pitched their tent next to us but we heard them pack up and leave at about 3am.

Waking up this morning, the weather had cleared a bit and it was a fantastic drive down the pass.  We have taken a video but it needs a bit of editing so will upload as soon as it is complete.

UPDATED: 5.09.17 video loaded, sorry no music!

Once down off the pass, our drive took us cross-country through some pretty countryside, interesting villages and very bumpy roads.  This village had the road blocked off by carpets across the road, as a Romany wedding was taking place. Not sure what the carpets symbolised or what the mini-train was all about. However, we had no choice but to sit and wait!

We are now parked up on Camping Aquaris at Sighisoara (N46.22325 E24.79598).  Sighisoara is a place we visited on our last trip to Romania and we remembered how pretty it was last time and couldn’t resist another visit.  However, we only managed a quick walk into the centre before the rain came again, so we will have to wait until tomorrow to have another walk around.

Sally x