Leaving Nafplio, we headed west about 35 kms to Epidavros (or Epidaurus as it is also known as). We knew it was a big tourist attraction but pulling up to the entrance late morning we hadn't expected to see as many as 5 coaches already parked up. For 6 euros you get entrance to the theatre, museum and sanctuary.
Epidaurus has a stunning ancient theatre, built around 330-320 BC. It was constructed with mathematical precision and near-perfect acoustics. We read that you can stand on the circle in the middle of the stage area and drop a coin and hear it in the highest of the 54 tiers - we didn't see anyone demonstrate this though. With a seating capacity of 14,000 it has some fantastic views across the landscape and although it has been repaired in places you can’t fail to be impressed with the size of it, especially when stood at the top.
Along with a Japanese coach tour - spotted with all their selfie sticks, we were joined by a large group of Italian students. Their teacher demonstrated on stage the acoustics best by doing short bursts of clapping all around her body. Funny to watch but got the 'acoustic point' across well. Then a lot of the students decided they wanted to be 'wanna be Pavarotti's' and started standing on the spot trying to do their best impersonation. The embarrassed teacher told them to shut up and sit down - well I think that is what she said because they soon did as they were told!
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They're not very comfortable these ancient theatre seats! |
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Mel ready to perform to anyone who will listen! |
Every year the summer festival of Epidaurus presents tragedies and comedies written by the most famous ancient theatrical authors although with the funding cut, these have apparently become less and less. The small 2-room museum houses very little. Some figures/statues, which are nearly all plaster copies (most originals are housed in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens) and some parts of the sanctuary, but again most of the original parts are missing and filled in with plaster. So for us it kinds of defeats the object of being a museum. There are a few rusty surgical instruments discovered in the Sanctuary and a couple of original stone tablets of who had been cured there, so that just about claws back the museum status.
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The museum of missing parts! There are a few brown bits (originals) and the missing parts filled in with white plaster. Mel, stood in the middle is mostly original by the way! |
Alongside the theatre is the Asclepian sanctuary, known as the most important healing centre of ancient Greece. Dedicated to Asclepios (the god of healing), patients used to lie and wait for a visit from the healing god believed to assume the form of a serpent - his (Asclepio) symbol of the staff and serpent are still seen today on ambulances and on the logo of the World Health Organisation. There are information boards around the site to tell you what it was in the day – Temple of Asclepios, Greek baths, gymnasium, healing rooms, guest houses and a stadium.
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The Temple - more restored white bits than original brown! |
A round building known as Tholos, with its inner foundation walls formed a labyrinth that is thought to have been used as a snake pit. Theories are that the snakes were used as a primitive kind of shock therapy for the mentally ill who visited here for a cure.
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Some restoration work has been carried out but stopped around 2010 – scaffolding still remains up though which is a shame! |
It was also known for hosting ancient games. Today controlled school track and field events take place here. A fusion of modern and ancient athletics.
The site is as large as that of Olympia and Delphi but having visited both of these sites this one unfortunately didn't hold any fascination for us. A short drive of 11kms took us to the small fishing village of Palaia Epidaurus, where we parked up. (N37.63705 E23.15731). Arriving at the village we were surprised to see signs to another Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus.
Sally x
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