The Medieval Rock of Monemvasia – The Gibraltar of the East

Leaving  Kokkinea we wiggled around the roads for a short distance of 26 miles (41.5 kms) south to Monemvasia.  The rock looms high out of the sea as we approach.  It was founded by the Byzantines in the 6^th century and was an impenetrable stronghold and the last outpost of the Peloponnese to fall under siege.  The rock is traffic free and so we parked up by the sea wall, just before the causeway at Yefira (N36.68860 E23.03660). There are a few 'no overnight camping/caravan signs where we are parked up and both sides of the causeway.  Regardless if there are signs up, we know wild camping is illegal in Greece but also know this time of year the police don't move you on (hopefully!) as there are hardly any motorhomes/campers around plus, most of the campsites are closed now so there is little choice.

Our great view of the rock of Monemvasia

The name Monemvasia derives from the Greek words ‘single entrance’.  As an island the only way in and out is across the short causeway.  From here it’s about 1km to walk to the entrance of the medieval site, which is built on the seaward face of the rock so nothing is revealed until you get right around the rock.  Like Mystra (where we visited a little over a week ago) the fortified town is split into an upper and a lower town.

Lower town, that continues to be restored

Entrance gate into the upper town

We took the steep route to the upper town first – about a 20 minute walk.  The site is one big sprawling ruin, most of which is unrestored, although a lot of structures are intact with information boards.  The place was deserted, it would seem most people choose to stay in the lower town as it is quite a hike up to the hill top citadel.

A mass of remains as we climb to the top, including a Mausoleum (built 1540-1690 during Turkish rule), vast cisterns that ensured there was a water supply in times of siege,  and a mix of old houses and churches.

Remains of the citadel on the edge of the rock

Walled stairway to nowhere!  But you do get a great view of the lower town below

Ayia Sofia - 13th century restored church

The other end of the rock. Careful Mel, it's a long way down!

The streets are steep and narrow from the lower to the upper town. There are a few beautique hotels and guest houses but goodness knows how they get their luggage up and down as no traffic is allowed in – maybe by donkey?  We didn't see any though!

The lower town is very touristy.  Lots of tat shops selling jewellery and religious stuff and of course umpteen bars, tavernas etc charging for overpriced food and drink. It is a pretty place though to wander around. Just as we were leaving a coach load of tourists were making their way in.  I can imagine in summer you can't move for tourists.

Lower town main square

We chose to head back across the causeway, to the little town of Yefira and enjoyed a lovely drink of wine and nibbles there!

Enjoying a posh glass of wine overlooking the Rock. Has anyone noticed that Mel has had a haircut?  All done by my fair hands!

Caught this little fella lurking around the streets of Yefira – Christmas must be on its way!

It was a long and slow journey for us the next day - 76 miles (121kms) that took just over 3 hours, through narrow villages, up steep mountains and into gorges.  We retraced some of the road we had taken to get to Monemvasia, as there is only one main road south and north.  Destination Leonidio.

As we climbed to 1,900 metres, we were in the clouds, with a bit of rain and could hardly see in front of Sonny’s bonnet!

Fortunately the weather brightened up and we got some stunning views as we went through the huge Dhafnon gorge. The roads are really steep and winding and we were surprised to see a few cyclists attempting to get up it.

The zig-zag road below

Sat Nav showing hairpin bends ahead - lots of them!

Sheer drops to where we are heading. 

Monastery Elonas - these monks must of had incredible building skills to build their monasteries on overhanging cliffs.  Stunning location for this one!

Gigantic red cliffs overlook Leonidio.   Reminded us of parts of the rock in the Grand Canyon.

There are signs for caravans/motorhomes to not go through the town, but to turn right as it is barely wide enough for one car

Our little spot for the night - Sampatiki (N37.18934 E22.90933) a few kms north of Leonidio.

You can just about spot Sonny at the top in the trees, overlooking the small port and village

There isn't a lot here other than a pretty port and beach and taverna with great food.  We enjoyed eggplant saganaki (they are known for their unique eggplants in this area, light purple with white strips), Greek salad, and large plates of pork and chicken gyros - we could see into the kitchen and watch it all being freshly made.

Once again we ordered far too much food but when it's so cheap its difficult to know how much you are going to get. With our waistlines expanding we have decided that the next few days is going to involve plenty of exercise for us and a low intake if food!

Sally x