Medieval Mystra and Magestic Mani

Parked up for the night at the entrance of the Byzantine Mystra, we had a really peaceful sleep. We woke up refreshed to the lovely mountain air, the overnight temperatures had dropped to 13°C but it was slowly warming up.  After a hearty breakfast, we were the first in to the historic site of Mystra.  It was built in 1249 by a Frankish prince on a 280m foothill of the Taygetos Mountain, and once housed 20,000 people.  It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site – yet another one!  The Franks were driven out by the Byzantines in 1262, then it fell into Turkish hands, then captured by the Venetians, then back to the Turks, followed by the Greek War of Independence.  Similar history pattern throughout the Peloponnese really.

We spent 3 hours walking from the lower town, up to the upper town and right to the top of the castle and back down again.  You can walk the lower half and then drive up to the castle but we needed the exercise.  The route takes you up cobbled paths and alleyways, through monumental gates, past medieval houses and palaces and churches and monasteries.  In most of the churches the magnificent frescoes have been preserved.

We took way too many photos and I have struggled to know which ones to put on.  So, prepare yourself for photo overload!

Lower town looking up to the castle across scattered ruins

Cathedral (built 1270-1292)

A marble slab of a double-headed eagle of Byzantium on the Cathedral floor.  It commemorates where the last Eastern Emperor was crowned in 1448. Five years later he perished along with his empire, with the sacking of Constantinople.

Vrondohiou Monastery (parts date back to1310)

Monemvasia Gate - a typical alleyway that winds around the lower town and up to the castle

Despots’ Palace (1249-1400) – under restoration and closed to the public

Inside St Sophia (1350).  The Turks converted this to a mosque and whitewashed the frescoes but when uncovered they have managed to survive

Pandanassa Convent (1428) that still houses a couple of nuns

Frescoes inside the convent

Perivleptos Monastery (1310) – partially built into the rock

View over the lower and upper town from the castle

Top of the castle overlooking the Taygetos Mountains

King of the Castle!

Three hours later we were back down at the motorhome.  For €6 per person, we certainly got our money’s worth.  Last night Mel had asked if I fancied driving back over the Langadha Pass.  He had done all the driving since we got into Greece (38 days), plus his shoulder had been hurting on and off, so after a couple of glasses of wine I had agreed.  Now the moment had come I was a bit nervous but there was no backing out – a promise is a promise!

A very nervous me!

Hope nobody is coming the other way!

Warning - overhanging rocks!

Luckily (for me), we only encountered a dozen or so cars over the 60kms but my hands and arms were aching.  Manoeuvring a 3.5 ton motorhome around steep hairpin bends is not my idea of fun but the views made it all worthwhile – you get a different perspective driving both ways across it. Getting down off the pass and skirting around Kalamata once again, we made our way onto the second and southernmost peninsula of the Peloponnese, known as Mani. The road climbed back up the other side of the Taygetos Mountains for a few kilometres before dropping back down to the sea.

Mount Taygetos - south west side

We parked up at Kardamyli, at the harbour next to what used to be a fortified customs house (N36.88300 E22.23428).  Some rich Greek has now bought it and workmen were in the process of converting it into a house. Don’t expect motorhomes will be allowed to park here when it is finished.

Not a bad view from our front door!

Kardamyli is a small village with some pretty houses and tavernas that look across the bay.  Patrick Leigh Fermor, who was a well-known British travel writer (including the classic Mani - travels in the southern Peloponnese) bought a house here with his wife and where he spent the rest of his days, which has now been converted into a museum. We sat and had a glass of wine overlooking the harbour and our pretty spot for the night.

Watching the Sunset over the Gulf of Messinia and Nisis Meropi Island

We woke up to these local residents outside our front door.  Mel rustled up some breakfast for them.

From here we headed further south, into lower Mani - a short journey of 25 miles (40kms). Passed some classic Mani villages

Lagkada

These very narrow roads are the main and only route around the peninsula

Our destination below - the tiny hamlet of Neo Itylo on the bay of Limeni

Parked up at Neo Itylo (N36.69055 E22.39219), it was chairs off, a quick swim in the sea for Mel and then relax in the sun before a walk around the hamlet to check out the tavernas.

Perfect spot at Neo Itylo

We have fallen in love with the southern Peloponnese - it is so natural and unspoiled we don't want to leave!

Sally x